Thousand Acre Plateau

In this episode of The Tramping Life, we head into the north-west of Kahurangi National Park to explore the Thousand Acre Plateau — a vast upland landscape of limestone formations, open tussock and sweeping horizons.Rising to around 1000 metres above sea level, this elevated former seabed feels unlike almost anywhere else in New Zealand. Accessed via the Matiri Valley Road near Murchison, the tramp begins gently along a 4WD access track to Lake Matiri Hut, before a sustained 750-metre climb delivers you onto the plateau rim.From there, the route traverses open, often boggy terrain to the tiny two-bunk Poor Pete’s Hut and on to Larrikin Creek Hut beneath the limestone bluffs of The Haystack. Along the way are distinctive landmarks such as The Needle and Mount Misery, offering optional scrambling trips and expansive views across this stark, exposed landscape.I share my three-day, 44km journey across the plateau in mid-summer — the long hot crossings, the steep climbs, dry tarns, sandflies, an refreshing creek dip, and a close brush with heat exhaustion. We also encountered an inspiring retired couple who had been tramping five days a week for over a year — proof that adventure doesn’t come with an expiry date.This is a route rather than a manicured track. It demands fitness, sound navigation, and respect for rapidly changing conditions. In summer, there is little shade and heat can be a serious factor. In wet weather, the mud and stream crossings can be challenging.