PODCAST · health
Uphill Athlete Podcast
by Uphill Athlete
We educate and inspire you to be the best mountain athlete you can be with unmatched experience and proven training knowledge.
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153
Muscular Endurance Training with Uphill Athlete Coaches
Steve House is joined by coaches Martin Zhor and Ben Morley for a deep dive into muscular endurance — what it is, why it matters, and how to train it. The conversation covers the critical distinction between local muscular fatigue and global cardiovascular fatigue, explaining why legs failing before lungs is the defining sign of a muscular endurance deficit. Drawing on examples from ultra running, mountaineering, ski touring, and cross-country skiing, the coaches walk through the physiological mechanisms at work: muscle fiber adaptation, capillarization, metabolic efficiency, and the role of stabilizer muscles in maintaining movement quality under load.The episode then turns practical, covering how to sequence muscular endurance training within a broader periodization plan — including the importance of building a strength and aerobic base first, how to use the 10% aerobic-to-anaerobic threshold rule as a readiness gauge, and what both gym-based and outdoor heavy-pack sessions should look and feel like. Martin and Ben also address common mistakes athletes make, from loading up on easy long hikes to skipping the downhill component entirely, and explain why this type of training is essential for anyone taking on objectives like Denali, UTMB, or long days in the mountains.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at [email protected]
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152
Voice of the Mountains: Season Two Recap
Longtime friend Kyle Lefkoff — alpinist and venture capitalist — turns the tables on host Steve House in a wide-ranging reflective conversation facilitated by producer Jamie Lyko. We are deeply grateful to Kyle for joining us: his rare combination of elite climbing experience and high-stakes business acumen made him the ideal interlocutor to draw out the season's most resonant themes. The conversation moves fluidly between the episodes of Season 2, distilling through-lines that span risk tolerance, the explorer's mindset, delayed gratification, childhood intensity, and what it means to successfully "make the turn" from elite athletic performance to a life of purpose and contribution. Steve reflects candidly on his own transition: the accident on Mount Temple in 2010 that forced a reckoning, the decision during COVID to cut the safety net of professional climbing income and go all-in on Uphill Athlete, and the parallel between committing on a big alpine route and committing to a business. Kyle offers a venture capitalist's lens on these same themes — examining how mountain guides develop a risk management fluency that translates directly to high-stakes decision-making in business, and how figures like Greg Penner embody the qualities of deep listening, disciplined time management, and talent recognition that define elite leaders in any arena. The episode closes on an intimate note — three fathers of six boys between them — reflecting on how the intensity that set them apart in the mountains is something they now seek to pass on, not as a liability, but as the seed of something extraordinary. Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgo Write to us at [email protected]
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151
Making Sense of the Data with Dr. Marco Altini
Steve House sits down with Dr. Marco Altini — data scientist, physiologist, and founder of HRV4Training — for a deep-dive into one of the most misunderstood tools in endurance athletics: heart rate variability. With over 50 peer-reviewed papers to his name, Dr. Altini brings rare scientific rigor to a space crowded with oversimplified wearable metrics. The conversation opens by challenging the industry's obsession with single-number readiness scores, which Dr. Altini argues dilute nuanced physiological signals into deterministic assumptions that don't reflect the complexity of the human body. The episode unpacks the fundamentals of HRV — what it actually measures, why morning is the optimal measurement window for endurance athletes, and how to interpret it as a marker of stress response rather than performance capacity. Steve and Marco also cover hardware accuracy across chest straps, optical sensors, and phone cameras; HRV research at altitude; and the broader question of how biometric data should support — not replace — the athlete's own sense of feel.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at [email protected]
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150
Voice of the Mountains: Success is Not the Summit with Peter Metcalf (Director's Cut)
This is the full, unedited version of Steve House's conversation with Peter Metcalf — extended and running longer than the standard episode release.Before Black Diamond Equipment became the most trusted name in mountain sports, there was Peter Metcalf: a teenager from Long Island hitchhiking to the Gunks every weekend, a dogeared copy of Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills on his nightstand, and a conviction that the mountains were where he belonged.In this conversation, Steve and Peter trace the full arc of that conviction — from his early apprenticeship years through a harrowing 13-day first ascent on Mount Hunter, where hallucinations, extreme cold, and frostbite tested everything he had. That experience forged a lesson Peter would call on again in 1989, when he organized a team of fellow climbers to buy bankrupt Chouinard Equipment out of collapse — using retirement savings, high-interest loans, and a shared sense of purpose — and rebuild it into Black Diamond.What emerges is a portrait of someone who applied the logic of alpinism to every domain of his life: patient apprenticeship, commitment without a visible outcome, and the willingness to keep moving when the only way to live is forward. This is a story about climbing — and about becoming.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at [email protected]
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149
Understanding the Female Athlete
In this special International Women's Month episode, host Chantelle Robitaille sits down with coach Alexa Hasman to explore what it truly means to train as a female mountain athlete. Together they walk through the physiological realities of each major life phase — from the menstrual cycle and pregnancy to postpartum recovery and menopause — not as limitations, but as distinct training phases requiring smart adaptation. Anchored by the guiding principle that "ability is the measure of permission," they challenge women to reject the noise of external opinion and cultivate a deep, data-informed understanding of their own bodies.The conversation covers practical strategies at every stage: cycle-tracking tools and red flags to watch for; trimester-by-trimester training modifications during pregnancy; the often-overlooked realities of diastasis recti and pelvic floor recovery postpartum; and why strength training becomes non-negotiable during perimenopause and beyond. Alexa and Chantelle make a compelling case that women's athletic identity is not fixed to any single phase — it evolves — and that with the right coaching, community, and self-advocacy, female athletes can pursue big mountain goals at every age.
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148
Strength for the Female Athlete
Coaches Chantelle and Alexa make the case that strength training is non-negotiable for female mountain athletes. They debunk the myth that lifting makes women bulky, distinguish between hypertrophy and functional strength, and walk through the three phases of strength programming: max strength, muscular endurance, and maintenance. Special attention is given to eccentric strength, an often-overlooked element critical for the downhill demands of mountaineering, trail running, and skiing. Learn how to get started as a beginner, common training mistakes, smart recovery practices, and how to measure progress beyond the weight on the bar. Get practical, accessible options for fitting strength work into a busy life. No matter your experience level or life stage, the best time to start is now.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at [email protected]
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147
Voice of the Mountains: The Measure of Permission with Dr. Christine Theodorovics
Dr. Christine Theodorovics — Viennese-born insurance CEO, doctoral researcher, and accomplished recreational mountaineer — joins Steve House for a wide-ranging conversation about what the mountains teach us that the boardroom cannot. Christine's story spans a humble upbringing in Vienna's public housing, a near-fatal attempt on Huayna Potosí with zero acclimatization, 25 years of quietly ticking off all 48 Swiss 4,000-meter peaks alongside a demanding executive career, and doctoral research interviewing 13 expedition leaders aged 39 to 97 across eight countries. What she found surprised her: at the end of every mountaineering life, what mattered most wasn't summits — it was the human connection forged along the way.The conversation moves fluidly between expedition leadership and corporate governance, Viktor Frankl and intrinsic motivation, quota politics and the permission women give themselves to lead. Christine argues that accountability can never be truly shared, that freedom requires a well-defined frame, and that the mountains remain one of the few places where positional authority dissolves entirely — replaced by demonstrated competence and trust earned in the field. A self-described "curious" person who has financed every step of her own path, Christine offers a perspective that is equal parts rigorous and warm, and thoroughly earned.
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146
Gas Exchange and Altitude Acclimatization with Dr Patrycja Jonetzko
In this science-focused episode, host Steve House sits down with Dr. Patrycja Jonetzko, a cardiothoracic anesthetist and high-altitude medicine expert, to explore the fundamental mechanics of gas exchange and oxygen delivery in mountain athletes. Dr. Jonetzko breaks down the journey of oxygen from atmosphere to working muscle, explaining the oxygen cascade, the critical role of partial pressure versus oxygen concentration, and why altitude performance is diffusion-limited rather than VO2 max-limited. The conversation illuminates why the body's adaptation to hypoxia is far more complex than simply producing more red blood cells.The discussion moves beyond basic physiology into practical application, covering breathing techniques like pressure breathing, the importance of hydration for gas diffusion, and why slower, deeper breaths are more efficient at altitude than rapid shallow breathing. Dr. Jonetzko advocates for reframing "acute mountain sickness" as "altitude adaptation syndrome"—recognizing that most symptoms represent normal physiological adaptation rather than pathology. She emphasizes that while genetic factors play a significant role in altitude performance, pre-acclimatization strategies including hypoxic tents and intermittent hypoxic training can meaningfully prepare athletes for high-altitude objectives.Drawing from both her clinical intensive care work and decades of Himalayan expedition medicine, Dr. Jonetzko reveals that success at extreme altitude ultimately comes down to energy management and self-awareness. The ability to maintain physiological efficiency while operating within narrow margins—controlling breathing rate, managing fear responses, and reading subtle body signals—often distinguishes those who summit from those who don't, regardless of baseline fitness levels.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at [email protected]
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145
Voice of the Mountains: The Responsibility to Remain with Mark Twight (part two)
In this concluding conversation, Mark Twight takes Steve into the harrowing heart of the 1988 Nanga Parbat expedition—four climbers clipped to a single ice screw, buried under avalanche debris for thirty minutes on the world's largest mountain wall. The vivid recounting reveals how total commitment to an ideal can blind climbers to approaching storms, yet paradoxically, that same commitment becomes the forge where transformation happens.The conversation traces Mark's evolution from elite alpinist to founder of Gym Jones, where training fighters, military operators, and eventually Hollywood's Spartans became his vehicle for service. What began as "grad school for himself" shifted into duty—a way to repay the society that had given him freedom to pursue his obsessions. Through years training actors for films like 300 and Wonder Woman, Mark applied the same all-or-nothing intensity that defined his climbing, discovering that accountability to a creative partner mirrors the trust demanded on a mountain face.When Steve asks about the through-line connecting all versions of Mark—the nihilistic Dr. Doom, the alpinist, the trainer, the writer—Mark distills it simply: chasing human potential, first for himself, then wanting it for others. The episode closes with Mark reading Bukowski's "No Leaders, Please"—a meditation on reinvention that has meant different things across different chapters of his life, now a celebration of constant growth rather than a confrontational manifesto.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at [email protected]
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144
Voice of the Mountains: The Hunger for Redemption with Mark Twight (part one)
In this first installment of a two-part conversation, Steve House sits down with legendary alpinist Mark Twight for one of Voice of the Mountains' most anticipated episodes. This deeply personal dialogue - the show's first in-person recording - reunites two climbers whose friendship spans more than three decades.The conversation opens with Twight's 2019 book Refuge and his struggle to redefine himself after stepping away from elite climbing. As the 25th anniversary of their landmark Slovak Direct climb approaches, they examine what that 60-hour nonstop ascent of Denali meant then and what it reveals now about ambition, limits, and the courage to walk away.Twight shares candidly about the costs of single-minded pursuit: failed relationships, financial instability, and the brutal honesty required to assess one's own decline. He traces his evolution from uncompromising soloist to gym owner and trainer, including his work preparing actors for films like 300and Man of Steel.Most powerfully, Twight reflects on the deaths of friends and mentors - Mugs Stump, Jeff Lowe, Scott Backes - and the weight of survivor's guilt. He and Steve explore what it means to remain open to relationships despite knowing the potential for loss.Part 1 ends on a cliffhanger: the setup for Twight's harrowing survival story on Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face, where four climbers hung from a single ice screw while buried by avalanche. That story continues in Part 2.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at [email protected]
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143
2026 Uphill Athlete Coaches: Goal Setting Summit
Most endurance athletes don’t fail because they lack motivation—they fail because their goals are vague, unrealistic, or disconnected from their daily behaviors. In this episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast, Steve House is joined by coaches Chantelle Robitaille and Alexa Hasman to unpack what actually makes goal-setting work over the long term.The conversation breaks down the critical differences between outcome, performance, and process goals, and explains why process-driven systems (not motivation) are the foundation of sustainable progress. The trio explores how identity, accountability, life constraints, and long-term planning shape athletic success, especially for non-professional athletes balancing work, family, and training.Listeners will learn how to build goals inside a realistic training structure, avoid common psychological traps like impostor syndrome and comparison, and design systems that hold up when motivation fades. The episode closes with a practical framework for reviewing past seasons, setting meaningful goals, and choosing the right level of support.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at [email protected]
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142
Voice of the Mountains: Brilliance is Abundant with John Winsor
John Winsor has lived many lives: setting an FKT on Kilimanjaro before the term existed, surviving an avalanche in the Selkirks, building and selling companies, serving on Black Diamond's board, and now researching organizational innovation at Harvard. In this conversation with Steve House, he traces the thread connecting these experiences—what he calls "the explorer's mindset." Whether pioneering bike-sharing programs as an ad agency or asking "why not?" instead of "why?" in academic research, Winsor has spent his career venturing beyond the horizon and bringing discoveries back to his community.The conversation moves into profound territory when Steve asks about Winsor's wife Bridget, who struggled with late-onset bipolar disorder and took her own life after 32 years of marriage. Drawing on Stephen Colbert's perspective about experiencing the full spectrum of human emotion, Winsor reframes tragedy not as something to be walled off but as an honor to witness and integrate. This openness extends to his recent prostate cancer diagnosis—another experience he approaches with curiosity rather than fear, asking "what does this feel like?" rather than retreating from difficulty.The episode culminates in Winsor's surprising answer to how he wants to be remembered: he doesn't. Inspired by Hindu traditions, he longs to become "a ghost in the machine"—present, curious, connected, but freed from the burden of maintaining identity or legacy. It's a vision of equanimity that, as Steve notes, doesn't contradict the desire to bend the arc of history, but somehow completes it.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at [email protected]
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141
2025 Trail and Mountain Running Highlights with Gabe Joyes
Steve House welcomes newly appointed Uphill Athlete Coach Gabe Joyes for a comprehensive look at the 2025 trail running season. Gabe brings deep expertise as both a competitive trail runner and race director, having organized Wyoming's Sinks Canyon Chill Races and Run the Red Desert for nearly a decade.The conversation covers the year's marquee events: Western States 100, where Abby Hall and Caleb Olson claimed victories; Hard Rock 100, marked by Katie Scheid's stunning course record; and UTMB, where Ruth Croft became the first woman to win the UTMB/CCC/OCC triple crown and Tom Evans finally claimed victory after two previous DNFs. They also discuss the World Mountain and Trail Running Championships, the rise of 200-mile distances, and the inspiring presence of athletes in their seventies and eighties still finishing hundred-milers.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at [email protected]
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140
The Life Between Climbs with Scott Backes
Steve sits down with longtime climbing partner Scott Backes for a conversation that moves far beyond typical adventure storytelling. Scott traces his path from rebellious Minnesota teenager to respected amateur alpinist, describing his 1980 baptism in the Canadian Rockies—soloing the West Shoulder Direct on Andromeda, climbing new routes on Mount Temple, and surviving desperate bivouacs on Kitchener's North Face. Rather than move west like most ambitious climbers, he deliberately stayed in Minneapolis, unwilling to surrender his identity to climbing's tribal pressures.The conversation takes an unflinching turn when Scott discusses growing up with a narcissistic father whose contempt taught him to hate himself. He credits climbing's hero's journey—and discovering he could trust and love his partners—with his path toward self-acceptance. This leads to what he considers his greatest contribution: normalizing emotional vulnerability among male alpinists. He was the first man outside Steve's family to tell him "I love you," helping transform the culture of their tight-knit circle.Both reflect on the challenge of returning from transcendent mountain experiences to ordinary life, and on their 2000 ascent of the Slovak Direct on Denali. Steve recalls a pivotal granite pitch climbed in darkness where he felt, for the first time, genuinely connected to others in something "almost religious." When asked how he wants to be remembered, Scott's answer is direct: as the person who brought the word love to hard-ass alpinists, and as an imperfect person who tried to understand himself.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at [email protected]
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139
Voice of the Mountains: The Geography of Risk with Kyle Lefkoff
Steve House sits down with Kyle Lefkoff, a rare figure who has lived at the intersection of serious alpinism and venture capital for nearly four decades. From discovering his "mutant gene" for rock climbing as a kid in Atlanta to surviving K2's deadliest season in 1986, from co-founding Array Biopharma (acquired by Pfizer for $12 billion) to serving as founding chairman of AIARE, Kyle shares how the same principles—luck, timing, patience, and pattern recognition—govern success on both big walls and in boardrooms. The conversation explores his philosophy of "where matters," his belief that geography shapes who we can become, and why he chose Boulder as the terrain where he could develop both his athletic and entrepreneurial potential. Kyle reflects on "Slater's Law" (the climb isn't over until the ropes are on the ground), the parallels between powder days and market momentum, and his ultimate legacy: building bridges—between climbers and guides, entrepreneurs and investors, communities and their mountains.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at [email protected]
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138
Nutrition Tips for Athletes: Holiday Edition - Replay
From the UA Pod Archives! We thought it was fitting to share one of our most popular episodes again in time for the holidays - updated with a new intro from Steve House, be sure to listen in! "In a special holiday episode, Alyssa sits down with Uphill Athlete’s new registered dietician, Alyssa Leib. The two tackle listener questions about fueling well through the holidays and the unique challenges athletes face. The questions range from how to handle comments about your eating habits to staying on track with training and nutrition during the holidays. RD Alyssa offers advice on adding, not subtracting with your nutrition choices as well as tips on approaching potentially stressful holiday meals. The two wrap with RD Alyssa’s words of wisdom including, eating consistently throughout the day, and practicing compassion and flexibility during the holidays. Listen along for great advice to help you through the stress of the holidays.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at [email protected]
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137
Supplements: How to Choose Safe and Effective Products
In this episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast, host Steve House and dietitian Alyssa Leib tackle the challenge of choosing safe, effective supplements in a largely unregulated industry. Alyssa explains that the supplement market operates as "the Wild West" with minimal FDA oversight, meaning products can contain banned substances, heavy metals like lead and cadmium, or nothing at all. She emphasizes the critical importance of third-party testing, recommending athletes look for NSF or Informed Sport certifications to ensure products are safe and accurately labeled.The discussion covers three essential questions before buying supplements: Does it actually work? Is it safe? Does it fit your budget? Alyssa provides specific recommendations including whey protein isolate over concentrate and creatine monohydrate as the gold standard form, while cautioning that popular supplements like collagen lack strong scientific support for joint health. She stresses that no supplement can replace adequate sleep, proper nutrition, and sufficient protein intake, and advises athletes taking medications to consult pharmacists about potential interactions before adding supplements to their regimen.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at [email protected]
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136
Voice of the Mountains: The Poetry of the Long Game with Randy Leavitt
In this episode of Voice of the Mountains, host Steve House sits down with legendary climber and entrepreneur Randy Leavitt to explore how vision, hard work, and delayed gratification shaped a lifetime of adventure. From pioneering routes like Jumbo Love to building a real estate business that funded decades of climbing, Leavitt reveals how he approached both pursuits with the same discipline and curiosity. He reflects on lessons from the Great Depression, risk management in big wave surfing, and the art of creating routes that others would one day climb. Together, they discuss how craftsmanship, patience, and a willingness to be a beginner underpin both mountain and business success. It’s a meditation on purpose, endurance, and building a legacy that outlasts the climb.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at [email protected]
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135
Should Endurance Athletes Use Supplements?
Host Steve House sits down with dietitian Alyssa Leib to tackle the big question: do endurance athletes really need supplements? Alyssa breaks down which options can actually make a difference, like protein powder and creatine, and which ones deserve more caution, including bicarbonate, greens powders, and caffeine. She explains why lab testing is essential before adding vitamins or minerals and shares tips on choosing safe, third-party tested products. Alyssa emphasizes “food first” as the priority, and then how supplements can help fill gaps when training, traveling, or on expeditions. The conversation wraps up with a look at future trends like ketones and a reminder to approach all supplement claims with a healthy dose of skepticism.Special Offer to Listeners: Receive free four week samples of our most popular training plans, visit uphillathlete.com/letsgoWrite to us at [email protected]
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134
The Joy of Ski Training with Ben Morley
In this episode, Alyssa sits down with Uphill Athlete Coach Ben Morley to discuss the ins and outs of skiing. Ben shares insights from his career coaching athletes from juniors to collegiate skiers and discusses ways to build durability, athleticism, and efficiency through ski training that translates into other mountain sports. The conversation explores the crossover between Nordic skiing, skimo, backcountry skiing, and trail running, highlighting the importance of technique, body position, and strength. Ben also breaks down preseason training, from aerobic base-building to ski-specific exercises like ski walking, bounding, and plyometrics. Above all, he reminds listeners that skiing is about joy, play, and the lifelong fitness it fosters.If you'd like to check out our special offer for podcast listeners visit: uphillathlete.com/letsgoYou can also write to us at [email protected]
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133
Voice of the Mountains: To See the Moment with Greg Penner
In this episode, host Steve sits down with Greg Penner, chairman of Walmart and CEO of the Denver Broncos, to explore the intersections of adventure, leadership, and risk. Greg recounts his 2018 Everest expedition, where his team faced oxygen regulator failures at 28,000 feet and had to make life or death decisions on the mountain. Drawing parallels between mountaineering and business, he reflects on decision making under pressure, finding the right partners, and learning when to push forward or when it is best to step back. The conversation dives into legacy, privilege, and giving back, from Walmart’s investments in its workforce to the Broncos’ community programs. Greg shares how the love of the process has shaped his approach to leadership and adventure.If you'd like to check out our special offer for podcast listeners visit: uphillathlete.com/letsgoYou can also write to us at [email protected]
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132
The Yosemite Triple with Laura Pineau
In this episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast, host Alyssa Clark talks with climber Laura Pineau, fresh off becoming the first woman, alongside Kate Kelleghan, to complete the Yosemite Triple Crown in under 24 hours. Laura shares the story behind her nickname “Mademoiselle Fissure” and how a passion for crack climbing transformed her career. She reflects on her path from deep water soloing in France to big walls in Yosemite, highlighting the mentors who shaped her journey. The conversation dives into her training, mindset, and the importance of nutrition, hydration, and strategy for long endurance climbs. Listeners will be inspired by Laura’s humility, love of learning, and insights on tackling seemingly impossible challenges.You can follow Laura's adventures on instagram @laurapineau If you'd like to check out our special offer for podcast listeners visit: uphillathlete.com/letsgoYou can also write to us at [email protected]
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131
Foot Care with Dr. Jeff Hammond
Dr. Jeff Hammond, a double-boarded foot and ankle specialist, joins host Alyssa Clark to talk about athlete foot health and injury prevention. They cover the pros and cons of shoe drop, custom orthotics, and how different footwear can impact performance and injury risk. Jeff shares practical advice on managing Achilles tendonitis, stress fractures, blisters, and trench foot while emphasizing prevention through smart training, socks, and foot care. The conversation also explores mental and physical challenges athletes face during tapering and long races, plus strategies for nutrition and gear testing. Join us to learn about all things foot care and injury prevention.You can learn more about Dr. Hammond at https://hammondfootandankle.com/If you'd like to check out our special offer for podcast listeners visit: uphillathlete.com/letsgoYou can also write to us at [email protected]
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130
Voice of the Mountains: Redefining Bravery with Melissa Arnot-Reid
In this episode of Voice of the Mountains, renowned mountaineer and guide Melissa Arnot Reid shares her journey of resilience, leadership, and self-discovery. She reflects on how her turbulent childhood shaped her psychological development and relationship with fear. She speaks on how she has learned to transform discomfort into strength. Melissa opens up about navigating a male-dominated profession, the challenges of motherhood, and the evolving role of women in mountain leadership. Steve and Melissa explore the nuanced meaning of bravery, the role of agency in risk-taking, and the importance of resilience both in the mountains and in life. Her story is one of honesty, vulnerability, and redefining success on her own terms.If you'd like to learn more about Melissa, visit her website at: https://www.melissaarnot.com/If you'd like to check out our special offer for podcast listeners visit: uphillathlete.com/letsgoYou can also write to us at [email protected]
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129
2025 Everest Trends with Steve House, Alan Arnette, Martin Zhor
Join us for a recap of the 2025 Everest season with host Steve House, coach Martin Zohr, and Everest expert Alan Arnette. They discuss key themes of the year, wind, drones, and new climbing aids like xenon gas, plus the challenges of frostbite, illness, and unpredictable weather. The conversation covers how drones improved safety and waste removal but also brought noise, and examines the ethics, risks, and potential of rapid-ascent technologies. Martin and Alan share coaching insights, stressing long-term preparation, realistic expectations, and defining success beyond summiting. They close with predictions for 2026, including possible new regulations, shifting climbing demographics, and emerging trends in high-altitude mountaineering.If you'd like to check out our special offer for podcast listeners visit: uphillathlete.com/letsgoYou can also write to us at [email protected]
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128
The Process of Becoming with Joe Corcione
In this episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast, host Alyssa Clark interviews ultra runner, podcaster and coach, Joe Corcione about his journey from addiction to endurance sports. Joe shares how running became his path to sobriety and self-belief, emphasizing the importance of learning and growth over results. They dive into identity, self-worth, and how chasing performance for external validation can backfire. Joe discusses the value of embracing failure as a tool for progress and highlights how process-oriented goals foster longevity in sport and life. The conversation is a powerful reminder that becoming someone you’re proud of matters more than any finish line.Learn more about Joe @joecorcione or @everydayultra.If you'd like to check out our special offer for podcast listeners visit: uphillathlete.com/letsgoYou can also write to us at [email protected]
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127
Voice of the Mountains: Success is Not the Summit with Peter Metcalf
In this episode, Steve House interviews Peter Metcalf, the legendary climber and founder of Black Diamond Equipment, about his journey from young climber to industry pioneer. Peter shares gripping stories from early ascents, including harrowing ascents, which tested the limits of endurance and leadership. He reflects on how climbing instilled values of trust, humility, and calculated risk that shaped his approach to business. Metcalf also recounts the resurrection of Chouinard Equipment into Black Diamond, a climber-led effort rooted in shared purpose and cultural authenticity. Ultimately, this is a story not just about climbing, but about transformation, resilience, and building something that lasts.If you'd like to check out our special offer for podcast listeners visit: uphillathlete.com/letsgoYou can also write to us at [email protected]
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126
Training to Climb Aconcagua with Steve House and Martin Zhor
In this episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast, host Steve House and guest, Coach Martin Zohr, explore the physical and mental challenges of climbing Aconcagua, the highest peak outside of Asia. They discuss the importance of structured training, including building a strong aerobic base, muscular endurance, and back-to-back long hikes with heavy packs. They touch on the effects of extreme altitude, logistical considerations like acclimatization and route choice, and the necessity of individualizing training plans. The conversation also highlights the value of subjective feedback in monitoring fatigue and readiness. Aconcagua is a tough yet rewarding climb that requires patience, preparation, and respect for the mountain’s demands.If you'd like to check out our special offer for podcast listeners visit: uphillathlete.com/letsgoYou can also write to us at [email protected]
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125
Training for Speed and Longevity with World Record Holder Zach Bitter
Ultra-running coach and legend Zach Bitter joins the Uphill Athlete Podcast to discuss the mental and physical strategies behind his record-breaking performances in 100-mile races. Host Alyssa Clark chats with Zach about his evolution in the sport, from his early trail running days to mastering fast courses like Desert Solstice. Zach dives deep into managing monotony, training with rate of perceived exertion (RPE), and how mountain races like San Diego 100 contributed to his speed-focused events. He also reflects on career longevity, transitioning from traditional sponsorship, and his growing interest in multi-day ultras. This episode is packed with insights for endurance athletes, whether you’re training for a summit or chasing distance records.If you'd like to check out our special offer for podcast listeners visit: uphillathlete.com/letsgoYou can also write to us at [email protected]
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124
Voice of the Mountains: The Edge of Effort with Alex Hutchinson
In the first episode of Voice of the Mountains Season 2, journalist, author and athlete Alex Hutchinson reflects on his journey from writing the acclaimed book Endure to navigating the uncertainty of future pursuits. He and host Steve House explore the tension between exploration and mastery, the “effort paradox” that makes hard pursuits meaningful, and how personal values shape decisions in sport and life. Alex shares how his own changes in direction, from physics to journalism and from external validation to intrinsic fulfillment. They discuss how athletic experiences can teach resilience which transers to all avenues of life, and help us push beyond perceived limits. The conversation offers rich insights into motivation, purpose, and the science behind our desire to do hard things.You can find more about Alex Hutchinson on his website, alexhutchinson.net.If you'd like to check out our special offer for podcast listeners visit: uphillathlete.com/letsgoYou can also write to us at [email protected]
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123
What can Trail Runners and Climbers learn from one another with Vitaliy Musiyenko
In this episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast, host Alyssa Clark chats with alpinist, climber, and trail runner, Vitaliy Musiyenko about the powerful lessons endurance athletes can learn from each other. Vitaliy shares his inspiring journey from an unhealthy teen to a top alpinist, emphasizing the value of mentorship, ego-checking, and relentless curiosity. He dives into the physical and mental demands of the Goliath Traverse and how it sparked his deep dive into endurance training. They also discuss the crossover between climbing and trail running, from pacing strategies to mountain safety, and how these skills are essential to success and longevity in the mountains. The episode wraps with a reflection on failure, growth, and the importance of keeping longevity and safety at the forefront of all mountain pursuits.If you'd like to check out our special offer for podcast listeners visit: uphillathlete.com/letsgoYou can also write to us at [email protected]
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122
How to Eat for Recovery: Nutrition Strategies for Mountain Athletes
In this episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast, host Steve House is joined by in-house dietitian Alyssa Leib to explore the crucial role of nutrition in athletic recovery. They debunk common myths around overtraining and emphasize that under-recovery, often due to poor nutrition, is a very common issue. Alyssa highlights the importance of sufficient calorie, protein, and especially carbohydrate intake, along with timing meals around workouts to optimize performance and healing. They discuss recovery strategies like drinking milk before bed, magnesium supplementation, and using antioxidant-rich foods like tart cherry juice among others. They underscore that good nutrition and quality sleep are the foundation of successful recovery for mountain athletes.Visit us at uphillathlete.com or write to us at [email protected] to connect with Alyssa and learn more about our nutrition offerings.
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121
Xenon and the Future of Big Mountain Expeditions with Lukas Furtenbach
In this podcast episode, Lukas Furtenbach, founder of Furtenbach Adventures, and Steve House discuss Lukas’ work in high-altitude expedition mountaineering. They discuss the development of hypoxic pre-acclimatization techniques and how technologies like xenon gas are being used to reduce expedition durations. The conversation addresses the ethical debates around these technologies, commercialization of Everest, and the reasons behind Lukas’ decision to utilize xenon gas in a ground breaking expedition beginning in May. This is part two in the Uphill Athlete podcast series surrounding the discussion of the use of xenon in mountaineering.
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120
Part One: Xenon Gas and High-Altitude Performance in conversation with Dr. Peter Hackett
In this episode, host Steve House sits down with Dr. Peter Hackett, a pioneer in high-altitude medicine, to discuss the potential use of xenon gas as a performance enhancer for mountaineers. Xenon, once used as an anesthetic, is a noble gas that may briefly stimulate erythropoietin (EPO) but lacks solid evidence of improving red blood cell count or performance. Dr. Hackett explains the risks of unsupervised xenon use and stresses the importance of controlled research before drawing conclusions. He shares skepticism around current anecdotal claims, especially without peer-reviewed data. The episode emphasizes safety, science, and honesty in altitude medicine. This is the first part of a two-part series on the use of Xenon in mountaineering.
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119
UA Book Club: The Business of Everest with Will Cockrell
n the latest episode of the Uphill Athlete podcast, host Steve House talks with author Will Cockrell about his new book Everest, Inc. Cockrell’s book explores the evolution of commercial guiding on Mount Everest. They dive into the origins of the Everest guiding industry, the early trailblazers, and how the mountain shifted from a mountaineering challenge to an endurance experience. Will shares stories of the colorful characters who helped shape the business and the ethical challenges. They also discuss the rise of Nepali-led guiding companies and the evolution and current state of Everest tourism. Everest Inc is available on all major book platforms.
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118
The Season of Injury with Chantelle Robitaille and Alyssa Clark
In this episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast, host Alyssa Clark welcomes Director of Coaching, Chantelle Robitaille, to discuss the emotional and physical challenges of injuries in endurance sports. Chantelle shares her personal journey of overcoming a fractured humerus and torn labrum, highlighting the mental resilience needed to navigate setbacks. She offers practical strategies for recovery, including focusing on controllable factors, setting realistic goals, and maintaining a strong support system. The two discuss the importance of viewing recovery as part of training and finding new ways to stay engaged with your community. Tune in for insights on how to turn injury into an opportunity for growth.If you'd like to learn more, visit uphillathlete.com or write to us at [email protected]
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117
Your Diet Sucks X Uphill Athlete
In this episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast, host Alyssa Clark is joined by Kylee Van Horn and Zoë Rom, creators of the Your Diet Sucks podcast, to discuss the dangers of nutrition myths and fad diets in endurance sports. They explore why extreme athletes are particularly susceptible to restrictive eating patterns, the misconceptions surrounding low-carb and fasted training, and the potential risks these approaches pose to both performance and health. Kylee and Zoe emphasize the importance of balanced nutrition, critical thinking, and recognizing the emotional and social aspects of food choices. They also offer insights on how athletes can resist diet trends by questioning sources, focusing on fundamentals, and seeking expert guidance. The conversation challenges the allure of quick fixes and reinforces the value of sustainable, evidence-based fueling strategies.If you'd like to listen to Your Diet Sucks, check it out on apple, spotify or your favorite podcast platform. You can learn more about Zoë and Kylee by visiting @youdietsucks, @carrot_flower_z or @flynutrition3 on instagram.If you'd like to learn more about Uphill Athlete, visit Uphillathlete.com or write to us at [email protected]
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116
Voice of the Mountains: Season One Recap
In this Season recap of Voice of the Mountains, Alyssa Clark joins Steve House and Jamie Lyko to reflect on the most powerful moments, surprises, and key takeaways from their conversations with the world’s top mountain athletes. The episode revisits deep discussions on the resilience, mentorship, leadership, and mental challenges that come with high-risk endeavors. Guests like Lydia Bradey, Ed Viesturs, and Conrad Anker shared personal stories of triumph, loss, and personal growth, highlighting the emotional depth of mountain sports. Steve, Alyssa and Jamie reflect on the importance of pushing boundaries in interviews, drawing out raw and authentic insights from his guests. Wrapping up with a fun round of superlatives, the team discusses the future of the podcast and invites listeners to share their thoughts on where to take the future conversations of Voice of the Mountains.If you'd like to learn more, visit uphillathlete.com or write to us at [email protected]
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115
A Family Affair: Hilary Spires on Running the HURT 100
In this episode, host Alyssa Clark sits down with trail runner, podcaster, and coach Hilary Spires to discuss her journey to the HURT 100, just nine months after giving birth. Hilary shares the challenges of postpartum recovery and balancing training with her family. She opens up about the physical and mental struggles she faced during the race, including a rib injury and battling the sleep monster. Hilary finished strong in fourth place, proving her resilience and determination. Tune in for an inspiring conversation on Hilary’s journey postpartum and how she made it possible to train for hard things with a family.Check out Trail Running Women Podcast on all podcast platforms! You can also see more of what Hilary is up to on instagram at @hilsport55 or @trailrunningwomenpodWrite to us at [email protected] or visit uphillathlete.com to learn more about our coaching, training plans and memberships.
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114
Tanner Wanish on Positive Suffering, Sponsorships and Climbing Hard
In the latest Uphill Athlete podcast episode, Alyssa interviews Tanner Wanish, a former Navy SEAL turned elite climber known for his record-breaking Yosemite Triple Crown ascent. Tanner shares his unconventional entry into climbing, his disciplined training regimen, and his perspective on balancing risk and endurance in high-altitude technical climbing. They discuss the mental and physical challenges of pushing limits while maintaining safety, particularly in extreme endurance events like the Yosemite Quad. The conversation also touches on his experience with sponsorships, overtraining, injury management, and the importance of listening to one's instincts in dangerous situations. Tune in for a fantastic episode with one of the rising voices in climbing.If you'd like to follow Tanner's adventures, you can check him out on instagram at @ilikebigbutress If you'd like to learn more about our offerings, please visit uphillathlete.com or write to us at [email protected]
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113
Voice of the Mountains: The Currency of Toil with Ed Viesturs
The last regular episode of season one of Voice of the Mountains wraps with the legendary high-altitude mountaineer, Ed Viesturs. Ed is the first American to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen, a testament to his unparalleled grit and respect for the mountains. With his famous mantra, "getting to the top is optional; getting down is mandatory," Ed’s philosophy has inspired climbers and adventurers alike for decades. Join Steve and Ed as they delve into his remarkable journey, his approach to risk, and the invaluable lessons he’s learned from a lifetime in the world's harshest environments.If you'd like to read the companion essay and learn more about Voice of the Mountains, please visit: https://uphillathlete.com/voiceofthemountains/You can learn more about Uphill Athlete and our offerings at: uphillathlete.com
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112
Strength Considerations for Mountain Athletes with Coach Drew Hammond
The Uphill Athlete podcast returns with UA tactical coach and strength specialist, Drew Hammond joining Alyssa to discuss the balance between strength and endurance for mountain athletes. Drew emphasizes the importance of strength as a foundation for endurance sports, highlighting how both attributes complement each other. They chat about how Drew implements auto-regulation, a flexible training approach that adapts to an athlete's readiness, using tools like rate of perceived exertion (RPE) and reps in reserve. The two underscore the importance of athlete enjoyment in their workouts and focusing on movement patterns versus specific exercises. Drew brings tremendous insight, wisdom and humor on how to build strong and durable athletes.Check out uphillathlete.com for more information or write to us at [email protected]
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111
UTMB Findings and Future Goals with Chantelle Robitaille and Alyssa Clark
Director of Coaching, Chantelle Robitaille takes over the Uphill Athlete podcast to turn the mic on usual host Alyssa Clark. They discuss Alyssa’s journey to the UTMB (Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc) in 2024 showcasing the changes she needed to make to focus on resilience and growth. After years of preparation, she achieved 11th place in the most competitive women's field in UTMB history, finishing in 26 hours, 25 minutes, and 13 seconds. Her season was marked by challenges, including shifting her mindset from rigid perfectionism to embracing joy, curiosity, and adaptability in running. She credited her success to building a supportive team, seeking help, and prioritizing mental strategies, such as staying present and controlling the controllable. Alyssa and Chantelle conclude that the power of gratitude, community, and self-compassion are far stronger than pushing oneself to fear and failure.Visit us at uphillathlete.com or write to us at [email protected]
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110
Voice of the Mountains: What the Mountains Teach with Rick Ridgeway
Rick Ridgeway, renowned mountaineer, environmentalist, and storyteller, joins host Steve House on Voice of the Mountains to share insights from a life lived boldly and with purpose. Known as the "real Indiana Jones," Ridgeway recounts transformative adventures, from summiting K2 to walking across Kenya’s wild bushlands. He delves into the profound lessons learned from nature, loss, and resilience, emphasizing the power of purpose-driven living. Along the way, he reflects on his relationships, including partnerships that shaped his climbing career and personal evolution. This episode is a testament to the enduring impact of values, exploration, and living a life bigger than oneself.If you'd like to see the companion essay and more information on Voice of the Mountains, please visit: https://uphillathlete.com/voiceofthemountains/
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109
Manaslu at 8000m with Martin Zhor
In the latest episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast, host Alyssa Clark welcomes coach and mountaineer Martin Zhor to discuss his recent climb of Manaslu, an 8,000-meter peak in the Himalayan mountains. The two discuss Martin’s lifelong dream of high-altitude climbing and details the challenges he faced in achieving this milestone. From years of endurance training and studying acclimatization strategies to overcoming logistical, physical, and mental hurdles, Martin provides an insightful look into his experiences in high altitude mountaineering. He emphasizes the unpredictable nature of such expeditions, the importance of preparation, and the sheer determination required to succeed. Tune in for an incredible story and an educational experience on what it takes to climb an 8000m peak without oxygen.Write to us at [email protected] or visit us at uphillathlete.com
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108
We Failed! Finding Lessons within Failure
The Uphill Athlete podcast returns with host Alyssa Clark and UA coach Alexa Hasman discussing reframing failure as a learning opportunity rather than a negative outcome. They emphasize the value of compassion and growth through their shared personal experiences with DNFs (Did Not Finish. They highlight factors like internal pressure, safety concerns, and lack of enjoyment. They stress the importance of understanding personal motivators, such as joy and social connection, and how these impact performance. They conclude that ultimately failure and DNFs lead to resilience and setbacks are part of the journey to achieving bigger goals.Visit us at uphillathlete.com or write to use at [email protected]
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107
Voice of the Mountains: Our True Selves with guest Conrad Anker
Voice of the Mountains host Steve House welcomes renowned climber Conrad Anker on to the podcast. They discuss Conrad's journey in mountaineering, his philosophy, and his leadership within the climbing community. They reflect on lessons learned in their own early climbing experiences, noting how climbing became a way to understand themselves and build resilience.Conrad emphasizes the motivations behind mountaineering, contrasting reward-seeking with purpose-driven pursuits. He describes his path from climbing as a youth in the Sierra Nevada to his extensive expeditions across the world. They discuss the importance of trust and connection between climbing partners, as well as the responsibilities and ethical considerations in leadership, especially within the climbing community.Conrad also shares insights into his work with the Khumbu Climbing Center (KCC) in Nepal, which provides education and training to Sherpa climbers. The conversation highlights Conrad's belief in silent leadership, leading by example, supporting others, and focusing on collective success rather than personal accolades.The two legends of climbing reflect on legacy, risk, loss, and the impact of experiencing grief in the climbing world. Tune in for an episode full of wisdom and empathy we can all learn from.
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106
Gabe Joyes and Multi-Day Stage Racing
The Uphill Athlete podcast welcomes mountain athlete, ultra runner and Uphill Athlete ambassador Gabe Joyes for a discussion with host Alyssa Clark. Gabe and Alyssa discuss his journey from being a backpacker to transitioning into competitive trail and stage racing, including his recent third place finish in the Dragon's Back Race in Wales. They break down his training approach, gear choices, challenges he faced, racing strategies, and his favorite aspects of the race. Gabe credits years of consistent training, adaptability, and thoughtful preparation for his success and shares his wisdom with listeners interested in stage racing or multi-day events. Tune in for a fun and enlightening conversation with Gabe!Check out more information on coaching or racing at uphillathlete.com or write to us at [email protected]
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105
Fat Oxidation, Fasted Training, and Low-Carb, High-Fat Diets
In this episode, host Alyssa Clark and RD Alyssa Leib discuss the role of fat oxidation, fasted training, and Low Carb High Fat (LCHF) diets in endurance training. They explain that fat oxidation, or the body’s use of fat as fuel, is crucial for ultra-endurance athletes. But, aerobic training will improve fat oxidation rather than strict low-carb diets or fasting. They also dive in to how fasted training has negative effects on performance, health, and training quality. Uphill Athlete’s updated stance emphasizes that the risks of fasted training, such as low energy availability, outweigh its benefits. They also discuss how LCHF diets, do not have evidence to support claims of improved endurance. Studies show limited performance gains and potential health risks, especially in high-altitude environments. Alyssa and Alyssa note that athletes should focus on balanced, fueling, especially with carbohydrates, and prioritize consistent training over restrictive dietary approaches.If you'd like to read more, check out our three articles linked below:https://uphillathlete.com/nutrition/fat-adaptation/https://uphillathlete.com/nutrition/the-impact-of-fasted-training-on-performance/https://uphillathlete.com/nutrition/high-fat-low-carb-diet-ultra-endurance-performance/Please visit uphillathlete.com to learn more about our nutrition coaching options or write to us at [email protected]
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104
Voice of the Mountains: My Ice Axe May Be Your Paintbrush with guest Jimmy Chin
Most of us will never reach the pinnacle of our most passionate pursuit, no matter how driven we are. Our guest today has, through dedication, creativity and ingenuity, reached the pinnacle of three of his passions.Beginning with a unique journey to discover climbing and skiing, then the discovery of an interest in photography, which finally led to becoming a premiere feature and documentary filmmaker, Jimmy Chin has forged his path with resilience, empathy, and a desire to tell important stories.Jimmy’s accolades and accomplishments speak volumes about a climber and artist who has pushed boundaries and silenced doubters. But it has always been the manner with which Jimmy has achieved that is most impressive. Steve and Jimmy discuss the evolution of his career and the catalyst for picking up a camera in the pursuit of climbing. They dive into the moral qualms Jimmy had shooting Free Solo and how and why he decided to create the award-winning documentary. Tune in for a conversation between two legends of the sport.Check out the companion essay and more information on Voice of the Mountains here:https://uphillathlete.com/voiceofthemountains/
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