58. How To Build Finger Strength

Let's talk building finger strength for beginner climbers. We're going to go over protocols and common practices so you can approach finger strength with longevity in mind. Do you believe finger strength is the most important thing to focus on? Because I don't. (Okay, it's in the top 3.) But hear me out: technique. Technique paired with consistency, intentionality, and curiosity will help build familiarity around hold positions, and you'll learn movement and strength. So have a listen to this week's episode and let's dive into finger training. 00:03:20 It's not just finger strength 00:04:15 What are your fingers doing 00:07:15 Hold proper hand positions with intention 00:08:34 Take this intentional approach to a training board 00:09:07 Time Under Tension 00:11:55 No Hang Protocol 00:22:25 Longevity in finger training 00:24:40 Other ways to improve grip strength and finger strength 00:26:15 Recovery example: rice bucket Check out my special offers below! 50% off Programs using code 5YEARSOMG at checkout 👇 Pulling Strong: Get your 1st or 10th pull up: https://www.modusathletica.com/pulling-strong Hanging Tough: Improve Grip and Shoulder Strength https://www.modusathletica.com/hanging-tough Minimalist Flexibility https://www.modusathletica.com/minimalist-flexibility New Member Offer: First 3 months for $97, use this checkout link to claim your discount https://www.modusathletica.com/offers/C5hDL5aq/checkout Emil's YouTube Videos: Original No Hang Video: https://youtu.be/sBTI9qiH4UE?si=NFjnIIodobQmmRHl Follow-up: https://youtu.be/XXrDQ8PCAmI?si=Y6hC1sqQ7BFstv_U Rice Bucket video: https://youtu.be/fpa_30upVTA Research studies: Intermediate and advanced protocols for hangboarding: López-Rivera E, González-Badillo JJ. Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers. J Hum Kinet. 2019 Mar 27;66:183-195. doi: 10.2478/hukin-2018-0057. PMID: 30988852; PMCID: PMC6458579. Original Keith Barr Study Emil used to create the no hangs protocol: Baar, K. (2017). Minimizing Injury and Maximizing Return to Play: Lessons from Engineered Ligaments. Sports Medicine (Auckland, N.z.), 47(Suppl 1), 5. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40279-017-0719-x Follow-up study with Keith Baar and Emil Gilmore, N. K., Klimek, P., Abrahamsson, E., & Baar, K. (2024). Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers. Sports Medicine - Open, 10(1), 1-11. https://doi.org/10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7