Busan's colorful backstreets embody the port city's rich history, culture and flavors

This article is by Woo Ji-won and read by an artificial voice. [BUSAN DEEP DIVE] BUSAN — If exploring alleyways is high on your itinerary while traveling, Busan has plenty to offer. Instead of the busy, neon-lit alleys you would normally encounter in Seoul, this coastal city hides retro, bookstore-packed backstreets and smoke-filled lanes lined with yang gopchang (beef tripe) joints behind the scenic shoreline. The alleys feel as if you have been time-warped to an earlier era, and lazy stray cats become your unlikely local guides. Explore these character-filled corners of Busan slowly and thoroughly, following the storied histories these alleys embody. Bosu-dong Book Street Bosu-dong Book Street in Jung District is hazardous for anyone who says, "I'll just stop by for a minute." An entire afternoon will disappear before you know, and you'll leave with three dusty old books you never planned to buy. Books spill out onto the street. Old comics sit beside philosophy books. Harry Potter rests next to faded Korean school textbooks from the 1960s. People flip through worn pages, while bookstore owners casually read novels at their counters. But the alley's most unusual stop sits near the far end at Hakmoon Bookstore. Instead of sushi, owner Kim Jae-hyeong serves a fairy tale omakase — referring to the form of Japanese dining in which the chef creates personalized dishes on the spot. Three books are first offered as an "appetizer," along with tea or bingsu (shaved ice) of one's choice for the 5,000 won ($3.30) experience. Kim studies faces, personalities and moods before disappearing into shelves stacked with some 500 books he has collected over 15 years. Minutes later, he returns carrying titles he believes fit the person sitting before him. "This book's character fits your image well," he said while handing over a recommendation by author An NyeongDal. "She's known for bringing imaginary things to life. You'll enjoy its heartwarming story." Flipping through the pages, a strange warmth slowly settles in, leaving one wondering how a stranger somehow knew exactly what would comfort their hearts. The alley itself dates back roughly 75 years, when a couple began selling secondhand magazines from U.S. military bases and used books beneath the eaves of wooden buildings. After the Korean War (1950-1953), refugees flooded into Busan, and temporary schools sprang up around the slopes behind Boksu-dong near Mount Gudeok. Students desperate for anything to read gathered around secondhand book stalls, gradually transforming the area into what became Busan's famous book alley. At its peak, around 70 bookstores lined the street. Around 30 bookstores remain today. "Recently, many people have been looking for early editions of Han Kang's books," said the owner of Hyorim Bookstore, who has been running the shop for 12 years after his wife operated it for 20 years. Floor-to-ceiling stacks filled the tiny store, from black-and-white comic books to newer titles. "It's nice just talking with young people," he added before proudly showing off his collection. Each bookstore carries its own personality. Donghwa Bookstore specializes in children's books, while Alpha Bookstore focuses more on academic texts and religious works. Older books are often sold at discounts of 50 percent or more, with some costing as little as 1,000 won. Rare editions, however, can fetch far higher prices. And before heading off to a cafe with your newly purchased books, there's one last stop: Book Street Photo Studio, where bookshelves double as photo backdrops for black-and-white portraits. Printed like an old memory, the photo becomes a small keepsake from Boksu-dong to take home. Culture Alley When the streets around Kyungsung University in Nam District start feeling too crowded, Culture Alley appears like a secret green escape. In 2004, architect Choi Yoon-sik purchased a house near the university. Three years later, he bought four neighboring houses, turning the area ...