Common Mistakes For Endurance Training: Part 1 With Tom Randall

Endurance training is a foundational element of performance preparation or training for almost every athlete, no matter what their discipline. Boulderers, sport climbers and trad climbers should all be completing phases of endurance training during their year. What is also common across these disciplines, is a consistent set of mistakes that climbers typically make when completing this type of training. In part one of this podcast, Tom Randall talks about the "Intensity" aspect of endurance work and how high, moderate and low intensity work affects the outcomes in technical, psychological and physical performance or adaptation. Low intensity endurance examples: Continuity or ARC trainingModerate intensity endurance examples: 50:50s or Polarised ContinuityHigh intensity endurance examples: 1 On 1 Off or 2 On 1 OffTechnical outcomes:1. Speed and pace of climbing. 2. Playing to your personal technical strengths, not working weaknessesPsychological outcomes:1. Good at trying when fresh, but not when fatigued2. Low or high 'suffering' thresholds3. Time spent working on 'flow' and 'highly efficient and relaxed' climbingPhysical:1. Neurological e.g. de-recruitment training stimulus2. Structural e.g. hypertrophy or vascularisation3. Metabolic e.g. muscle enzyme activityThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.