EP338 小黑裙 香奈兒五號背後 一個女人如何重寫規則｜Coco Chanel

如果一個女人徹底改變了全世界女性穿衣服的方式，卻也在人生某個階段做出讓後人難以原諒的選擇，我們該如何看待她？可可香奈兒就是這樣一個無法簡單歸類的人物。 一八八三年出生於法國索繆爾，母親早逝讓她十一歲就被送進修道院孤兒院。她在那裡學會了縫紉，也學會了一種近乎嚴苛的簡樸美學。從夜總會駐唱女孩，到情婦，再到巴黎時尚界最有權勢的女人，香奈兒的每一步都靠自己的判斷走出來。 她用原本廉價的針織布料，讓女人第一次不需要馬甲就能優雅地行走呼吸。小黑裙、香奈兒五號香水、斜紋軟呢外套，這些至今仍在影響全球時尚的經典，都出自她手。 但戰爭年代，她與納粹情報官員交往，甚至涉入一項企圖利用邱吉爾私交求和的秘密行動，戰後被指控為通敵者。這段歷史至今仍充滿爭議。 一九五四年，七十一歲的她重返時尚界，從被嘲笑到再次引領風潮，直到八十七歲仍在工作至生命最後一天。 今天的沉思者J，我們誠實地走進這位女性的光榮與陰影。 If a woman completely transformed the way women around the world get dressed, yet also made choices during a certain period of her life that later generations find hard to forgive, how should we understand her? Coco Chanel is exactly this kind of figure who resists easy categorization. Born in 1883 in Saumur, France, she lost her mother at eleven and was sent to a convent orphanage. There she learned to sew, and absorbed an aesthetic of severe simplicity. From cabaret singer to mistress to the most powerful woman in Paris fashion, every step of Chanels rise came from her own judgment. Using once cheap jersey fabric, she let women walk and breathe freely without a corset for the first time. The little black dress, Chanel No 5, the tweed jacket, these classics still shape global fashion today, and all of them came from her hands. But during the war, she became involved with a Nazi intelligence officer, and even took part in a secret plan attempting to use her personal connection to Churchill to seek peace. After the war she was accused of collaboration, a chapter that remains controversial to this day. In 1954, at seventy one, she returned to the fashion world, moving from ridicule back to leading the industry, working right up until the final day of her life at eighty seven. Today on Thinker J, we look honestly at both the glory and the shadow of this woman. 可可香奈兒, Coco Chanel, 沉思者J, Thinker J, 向大師致敬, 時尚設計, 香奈兒五號, 小黑裙, 女性解放, 二戰歷史, 巴黎時尚, 爭議人物, 品牌創辦人, 服裝設計師, 歷史人物, Jenny, 傳記, 勵志, 時尚史, 逆境重生 Powered by Firstory Hosting