EPISODE · Aug 5, 2026 · 40 MIN
From Peacocks to Penguins: Chloe Chapin on the Sartorial Revolution
from The Not Old - Better Show · host Paul Vogelzang Smithsonian Associates
👔 The most powerful costume may be the one we stopped noticing. In Suitable: The Sartorial Revolution and the Fashioning of Modern Men, fashion historian and former Broadway costume designer Chloe Chapin follows an extraordinary transformation. Men moved from colorful coats, patterned waistcoats, and elaborate display to the plain, dark suit. That change carried political meaning. During the early American republic, restrained clothing came to represent democracy, rationality, masculinity, seriousness, and public authority. Plainness became a choice that looked increasingly natural. Chapin also asks us to consider the cost. As men presented themselves as standing outside fashion, fashion became more closely associated with women, frivolity, and cultural unseriousness. Around the world, the Western suit also displaced traditional forms of male dress. Our Smithsonian Associates Interview Series conversation ranges from George Washington's badly fitting trousers to cotton technology, domestic manufacturing, race, gender, and the visual signals we still use to decide who looks credible. 🎙️ Listen to The Not Old Better Show and ask yourself: Why does power still dress in dark wool? #TheNotOldBetterShow #SmithsonianAssociates #ChloeChapin #Suitable #FashionHistory #AmericanHistory #Democracy #Menswear #CulturalHistory
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From Peacocks to Penguins: Chloe Chapin on the Sartorial Revolution
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