From the 'Gate of the Dead' to lively haunts, Sindang-dong blends the historical and hip

This article is by Woo Ji-won and read by an artificial voice. [ABOUT TOWN]: Sindang-dong Just east of the futuristic curves of the Dongdaemun Design Plaza in Jung District, central Seoul, lies the seemingly quiet neighborhood of Sindang-dong, best known for tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes). Beneath its tranquil atmosphere, however, stands a far more eerie history — one marked by burial grounds and wandering spirits. During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), cemeteries spread across the hills outside the fortress walls surrounding Hanyang, the old capital, as burials were prohibited within the city. The area where Sindang-dong is located now once housed numerous cemeteries and cremation sites. Shamans naturally gathered here and built sindang, or shrines, to perform rituals honoring the dead, ultimately giving the neighborhood its name. That eerie history does little to deter the adventurous looking for a new neighborhood to explore. Today, Sindang-dong is one of Seoul's trendier enclaves, even earning the nickname "Hipdang-dong." While much of the haunting history has disappeared from view, remnants of old Sindang-dong still exist. A few shrines still survive in quiet corners, while long-standing shops selling grain and restaurants continue to line the streets. Among them co-exist trendy cafes and bars, which at night grow even livelier, with crowds filling seats tucked in old buildings and market alleys. In Sindang-dong, the past has not vanished but instead learned how to live alongside the new. "It still carries the feel of old Seoul and feels deeply human," said Park Sang-jun, the owner of Cafe Elak in Sindang-dong. "It may not draw as many crowds as places like Seongsu-dong or Hannam-dong, but the neighborhood once had an incredible energy of its own, and it still has the kind of charm that can pull people back at any time." Remnants of the past The story of Sindang-dong begins around Gwanghuimun Gate, making it a fitting place to begin exploring the neighborhood. During the late Joseon era, hills near the gate, one of the six entrances of Hanyangdoseong — the fortress wall of the old capital — were filled with graves, including present-day Singdang. Funeral processions carrying the dead regularly passed through the gate, cementing its grim reputation as the "Gate of the Dead." Along the roads outside the old wall, shamans lived and built sindang where they performed rituals to comfort wandering spirits. Today, however, Gwanghuimun feels far removed from that haunting past. Now serving as one of the entrances into Sindang-dong from Dongdaemun History & Culture Park Station, the gate opens onto a lively street where old restaurants sit beside trendy pizza places and stylish cafes — a snapshot of modern Sindang-dong. Walk through the gate and head east to enter the neighborhood, where old Seoul begins to reveal itself. Just a few minutes away is an alley that best preserves the neighborhood's past: Ant Alley. The poet Im Bo-seon named the alley in 2017 after the hardworking residents who lived there, drawing a comparison with ants. First, head to the alley's shelter where the stretch begins. The spot is also known as the place where Yoo Jae-suk and Cho Sae-ho sat and filmed during an episode featuring Sindang-dong for the hit TV show "You Quiz on the Block" (2018-). A signboard crafted by a local woodcraft artisan introducing the alley greets visitors. Wander along the alley with weathered houses tightly packed together, remnants of the neighborhood's earlier residential history. Murals throughout the alley reflect the community's affection and pride for the area. The next alley leading to the main road is known as "Myeongin" Alley, or Master Craftsman Alley. At its peak, dozens of blacksmiths operated there, though only a few workshops remain today, with one having operated for around 50 years. It's another old character that still defines Sindang-dong. Old and new To fully enjoy Sindang-dong, one has to experience both...