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Seoul's famed food market is turning to hybrid dishes and premium ingredients as vendors compete to stand out and keep tourists coming back. At Gwangjang Market, one of Seoul's most popular stops for travelers seeking a taste of traditional Korean food, the latest trend is surprisingly modern: hybrid dishes. At a yukhoe (Korean beef tartar) joint, customers can order bindaetteok (mung bean fritters), and at a bindaetteok stall, they can find yukhoe. The mix of once-distinct dishes is the result of intense competition inside the bustling market, where vendors are constantly looking for new ways to distinguish themselves. The hybrid shift goes beyond a diner serving two different cuisines, but it is also happening on the plate itself. One of the newest creations from the culinary movement is caviar-topped yukhoe gimbap (Korean seaweed roll). The new treat combines two of Gwangjang Market's signature dishes — yukhoe, typically served heavily seasoned with sweetened soy sauce and sesame oil or with chogochujang (Korean chilli paste with vinegar), and mayak gimbap, slim rolls filled with simple ingredients such as pickled radish and cucumber. Put the two together and voila. It results in an unexpectedly indulgent take on a street food staple. The flavor of raw beef becomes more pronounced while its tenderness stands out. The rolls are recommended to be dipped in fresh egg yolk or mayonnaise spiked with chili. "We put a lot of thought into finding the right balance between Gwangjang Market's two signature dishes," said Chu Sang-mi, who runs Parkganae Bindaetteok, a decades-old bindaetteok joint which runs two outlets inside and nearby Gwangjang Market. For those seeking an even more extravagant version, there is the ultimate caviar-topped option. The premium roll was developed in collaboration with food influencer Bimirya, who also operates a caviar business. "We wondered whether we had to sell only inexpensive food because we are in a traditional market," Chu said. "Japanese norimaki [seaweed rice rolls] often incorporate premium ingredients. We thought, why not try it ourselves? We thought it could be fun and a little shocking." The result is undeniably luxurious. The briny richness of the caviar pairs surprisingly well with the tender yukhoe, creating a combination that feels both familiar and entirely new. It of course comes with a hefty price tag. A roll of the caviar version costs 31,000 won ($22), nearly three times the 11,000 won price of the standard yukhoe gimbap, which is already expensive for a humble Korean staple. "We use caviar from Russia's Amur region, which costs about $100 for 30 grams [1 ounce]," Chu said. "We don't expect to make much profit from the caviar version." Perhaps for that reason, the caviar-topped roll is available only at Parkganae's second branch. Another specialty drawing attention at the diner is its shrimp wanja. Traditionally, wanja are small patties made with minced beef and vegetables. The version served here, however, resembles a bindaetteok, with a flatter shape that provides a crispier texture. Parkganae adds another twist to it by replacing the beef with minced shrimp. The shrimp wanja is lighter in texture but with a pronounced seafood flavor. Gwanjang Market has undergone a significant transformation since its foundation in 1905, when Korean merchants established the market by pooling capital to compete with the growing presence of Japanese merchants. They expanded on an existing marketplace along the Cheonggyecheon and built modern market facilities. It once traded everything from agricultural goods to daily necessities and clothes. A major turning point came in the 2000s when the restoration of the nearby stream attracted both locals and foreign visitors to the area. The market has since emerged as a hub for authentic Korean cuisine and local experiences. "Cheonggyecheon was beautifully restored, and 'Squid Game' [2021-25] and BTS became big hits," Chu said. "I think tourists' ...