Piazza Aldrovandi-ingl.

What this episode covers

PIAZZA ALDOVRANDI is located in the heart of the Santo Stefano district and is recognizable  by its long and narrow shape, stretching from north to south. Like the nearby Via Petroni and Via Guerrazzi—of which it serves as a sort of hinge—the square was created by filling in the ancient moat that once bordered Bologna’s second city wall, dating back to the 11th century and partially destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa in the 12th century. Once the moat was filled, the area became one of the first to be paved with stone—a rare privilege at the time—which earned it the name “Seliciata dei Servi,” later changed to “Seliciata di Strada Maggiore.” It was only in 1874 that the square was renamed in honour of Ulisse Aldrovandi, a renowned physician, naturalist, and true pioneer of modern science, who in the 16th century founded the Botanical Garden of Bologna, one of the oldest in Europe. At the southern end of the square, where Strada Maggiore and Via Guerrazzi intersect, one finds a fascinating corner of history and architecture. On the left stands Palazzo Bianchetti, originally built in the 15th century and renovated in 1790 by architect Angelo Venturoli. The façade facing the square is adorned with a late 16th-century fresco depicting a Crucifixion with the Virgin Mary and Saints John, Paul, and Peter—an artwork that is not widely known, yet holds great spiritual and artistic value. On the opposite side stands one of Bologna’s Baroque masterpieces: Palazzo Davia Bargellini, designed in the 17th century by architect Bartolomeo Provaglia. Its monumental entrance is flanked by two gigantic telamons—colossal sculpted figures that appear to support the portal—now iconic among Bolognese citizens. Today, the building houses the Civic Museum of Industrial Art, which showcases collections illustrating the history of design, craftsmanship, and Bolognese elegance through the centuries. At the northern end, the square opens onto Via San Vitale and Via Petroni, right in front of the picturesque Torresotto di San Vitale and the refined Palazzetto Scagliarini Rossi. The torresotto, part of the medieval city walls, dates back to the late 12th century. The elegant turret at the top—with its loggia and twelve windows—was added in the 15th century, while the passage below was modified in 1603 by the Borzani family, who had acquired the property. Nearby stands Palazzo Scagliarini Rossi, originally built in the 15th century and converted into a Benedictine nunnery in the following century. However, it was during the Napoleonic era that the building underwent a dramatic transformation. Architect Giovanni Battista Martinetti, who made it his residence, redesigned it with taste and originality, even including a rare English-style garden, an uncommon feature in Bologna. His cultured and charming wife, Cornelia Rossi Martinetti, made the palazzo famous as one of the most brilliant literary salons of the 19th century. Among its guests were celebrated figures such as Giacomo Leopardi, Ugo Foscolo, Antonio Canova, Lord Byron, Vincenzo Monti, and even Stendhal, all captivated by her intellect and beauty. In 1877, Piazza Aldrovandi—already known as a stop for horse-drawn carriages (fiacres)—was selected as the new site of the herb market, which until then had been held in Piazza Maggiore. Starting in the early 1990s, permanent kiosks were installed to sell fruits, vegetables, and other goods. While these stalls provide a valuable service, they have also somewhat altered the visual harmony of the square, creating a barrier between the historic porticoes and the open space.

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