Piazza Galvani-ingl.

PIAZZA GALVANI Behind the majestic Basilica of San Petronio, nestled between the elegant architecture of Via Farini and the historic porticoes of the city centre, one finds Piazza Galvani — one of the most refined and historically rich corners of Bologna. Once known by various names — Piazza dell’Accademia, dell’Archiginnasio, delle Scuole, della Pace, and more popularly as Piazza del Pavaglione — this square has always been a significant crossroads, both culturally and socially. Its name evokes the scientific brilliance of Luigi Galvani, the renowned 18th-century Bolognese physician and physicist, famous for his pioneering studies on animal electricity. At the centre of the square stands a marble statue of the scientist, depicted observing an open book on which a frog — symbol of his electrophysiological experiments — rests. The statue was sculpted by Adalberto Cencetti and unveiled in 1879. It is not uncommon to see students stop to photograph it or, as a gesture of respect and a touch of superstition, gently touch the frog before an exam. Adding even more significance to this space is the presence of the Civic Archaeological Museum, housed in Palazzo Galvani, which faces directly onto the square. Considered one of the most important archaeological museums in Italy, it holds rich Egyptian, Etruscan, Roman, and Greek collections — proving Bologna’s deep historical and cultural roots. Even before the square was dedicated to the celebrated scientist, this area was an integral part of the Basilica of San Petronio’s complex. The decision to open a new square dates back to 1563, when Pope Pius IV, for reasons of town-planning but also as a political move, wanted to create an open space in front of the Archiginnasio, the new seat of the University. The project was entrusted to Antonio Morandi, known as “il Terribilia,” and commissioned by Cardinal Carlo Borromeo. In less than two years, the Archiginnasio was completed, with a two-story façade and a portico made of terracotta and sandstone, that still impresses with its simplicity and elegance. The portico, with its 15 bays marked by Corinthian pilasters, initially hosted small shops which, with their rent, helped fund the construction of San Petronio. A curious aspect of the square is linked to the silk cocoon market, which took place here as early as 1449. The name Pavaglione — derived from the local dialect word for pavilion — remains in widespread usage. Silk was for centuries one of the city’s primary economic resources. To this day, beneath the Pavaglione portico stands the historic Zanichelli Bookstore, where poet Giosuè Carducci used to retreat in the late 19th century. The bookseller even reserved a room for him to read and write undisturbed — a small gesture we might now call “fan service,” but one that contributed to Bologna’s cultural vibrancy at the time. Also under the portico, in the 1920s, opened the historic Bar Zanarini — now one of the city’s most iconic cafés. Nearby, the Veronesi jewellery shop, which moved here in 1922 from Via degli Orefici, continues to embody the timeless elegance of this corner of Bologna. Another unique feature of Piazza Galvani is the remarkable concentration of art and artists who have left their mark here. Michelangelo sculpted his statue of Julius II here in 1506, Giambologna created his Neptune in 1564, and Alessandro Menganti cast the statue of Gregory XIII in 1580. The square was also home to sculptor Alfonso Lombardi, author of many works, amongst which the statues of the Four Patron Saints of Bologna beneath the arch of Palazzo del Podestà and the famous Lamentation over the Dead Christ. From this square, one enjoys a privileged view of one of the city’s most fascinating architectural imperfections: the apse of the Basilica of San Petronio. If you look closely, you can see that the masonry was sealed off in a makeshift manner. Legend has it that it was Pope Pius IV Medici himself who obstructed the completion of the church, fearing it would outshine St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. And so, to this day, San Petronio remains unfinished — but perhaps even more captivating because of it.