Piazza San Francesco-Ingl.

What this episode covers

PIAZZA SAN FRANCESCO In the heart of Bologna’s historic center, just a short walk from Via del Pratello and Via Ugo Bassi, one finds Piazza San Francesco, dominated by the majestic Basilica of the same name—one of the greatest masterpieces of Gothic architecture in Emilia-Romagna. Construction began in 1236, only ten years after the death of Saint Francis of Assisi, when the Franciscan friars arrived in Bologna. The choice of location was no coincidence: it stood on the outskirts of the city, yet close to main roads and commercial areas, perfectly in tune with the humble and itinerant spirit of the Franciscan order. The church was consecrated in 1251, thanks also to the support of the city government and several of Bologna’s most influential families. The complex was built in an area known as civitas antiqua rupta, or “ancient ruined city,” referring to the western, decayed section of the old Roman settlement, located outside both the first and second city walls perimeter. Along the eastern side of today’s square once ran a stretch of the second circuit of medieval walls, of which only Porta Nova remains visible today. During the Napoleonic era, the convent was closed, and the church deconsecrated: it was turned into a customs warehouse, its artistic treasures were dispersed, and the building itself suffered serious damage. After the unification of Italy, the area experienced decades of neglect and improper use. It wasn’t until between 1886 and 1906, thanks to the major restoration work led by Alfonso Rubbiani, that the Basilica regained its splendour—though with some significant changes to its original appearance. During World War II, the church suffered further collapses due to bombing, but important reconstruction efforts took place between 1946 and 1948. Upon entering the Basilica, visitors are struck by the splendid marble altarpiece above the high altar, sculpted between 1388 and 1393 by the Venetian brothers Jacobello and Pier Paolo dalle Masegne. The interior also houses several notable funerary monuments, including the tomb of the anti-pope Alexander V, the Muzzarelli Chapel in Romanesque style, and the convent’s beautiful cloisters, which date back to the 14th and 15th centuries. The complex also includes the Library of San Francesco, which holds an impressive collection of 39,000 books and pamphlets, along with the Rubbiani Archive, the Historical Archive of the Bolognese Province of the Franciscan Conventuals, and the Musical Archive. Today, the Basilica remains a vibrant place, hosting concerts, cultural events, and religious celebrations—maintaining a balance between spirituality and public life. One of the square’s most valuable treasures is the group of three Gothic arche (funerary monuments) dedicated to the Glossatori, the medieval jurists who interpreted and commented on the laws. These include the tombs of Accursius and his son Francesco d’Accursio, as well as those of Odofredus and Rolandino dei Romanzi. These monuments celebrate the prestige of the University of Bologna in the 13th and 14th centuries and highlight the connection between the religious orders and the social groups who were shaping the city’s leadership. Visiting this square means rediscovering an authentic piece of Bologna, where time seems to flow with respect for its deepest roots.

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