All Episodes
The Nugget Climbing Podcast — 393 episodes
EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers
EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus
EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s
EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)
EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing
EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength
EP 297: Peter Mortimer (filmmaker) — Dean Potter’s Rivalry with Alex Honnold, His Inner Demons, and The Dark Wizard
EP 296: Dave Thompson — Early FAs in Leavenworth, Applying Your Strength on the Wall, and Personal Agency
EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics
EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers
EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance
EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)
EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever
EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades
EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear
EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record
EP 287: Domen Škofic — The Red Bull Plane Project, Rediscovering Passion in Flatanger, and Trying Silence 9c
EP 286: Steve Moss — Why Discomfort Fuels Breakthroughs, Double V12 Days at Age 40, and 455 V-Points in 24 Hours
EP 285: Tyler Stableford — Finding More Joy in Climbing, Breaking Plateaus, and Inputs Over Outcomes
EP 284: Four PTs — The Case for Taking a Break, Heel Hooking Injuries, & Off-the-Wall Strength Training
NEW LAUNCH: The Nugget Training App is Live
EP 283: Adrian Ballinger — The Mental and Physical Grind of High-Altitude Climbing, and Lessons for Every Climber
EP 282: Kerwin Loukusa — 4 Keys to Unlocking V13, Forecasting Perfect Conditions, & Embracing Beginner's Mind for Projects
Something Different | Robb Wolf — Vitamin D, Zone 2 Cardio Hacks, Strength & Conditioning Timing, & Never Giving Up On Your Health
EP 281: Eryn Phelps — Healing Anxiety & Trauma, Navigating Time Scarcity, & Getting Clear on What You Want
Follow-Up: Alex Bridgewater — 3 Sports Psychology Skills That Will Transform Your Climbing
EP 280: Stevie Hochbaum — Sending Germany’s First V16, The Toll of Obsessive Projecting, and Transformation Through Climbing
Something Different | Can Soil Save the World? Climate, Health, and Big Ag with Rebecca Tickell (Filmmaker, Kiss the Ground)
EP 279: Andy Raether — Bringing Routes to Life, How to Be Stronger at 40 than 20, & the Woods Board
EP 278: Jeremy Kiner (Patron Spotlight) — The GRINDS Program, Embracing Double Rest Days, & Regenerative Farming
EP 277: Michelle LeBlanc — Project Pride 2025, the Political Pendulum Swing, and Meeting in the Middle
EP 276: Alex Bridgewater — Sports Psychology Tools to Elevate Your Climbing Performance
Something Different | Jake Muise (CEO & Founder of Maui Nui Venison) — Sustainable Food for Peak Performance
EP 275: Yuji Hirayama — Japanese Focus, Improving Every Day, and the Secret to Staying Young
Something Different | Eric Edmeades — Unlocking Resilience Through Ancestral Living
EP 274: Seneida Biendarra — Onsighting Without Sight, Designing Better Gear, and Wielding the Empathy Gun
EP 273: Brendan Baars — Developing ‘The Nooks’, How His Big Toe Saved His Life, & Choosing Adventure Over Grades
EP 272: To Send Hard Boulders Outside… Go Try Them A Lot — Steven Bergey (Patron Spotlight)
Something Different | Justin Nault — The Pitfalls of Nutrition Research, the Intersection of Health & Performance, & the Journey of Self-Love
EP 271: Facundo Langbehn — The WHY Behind Hard Climbing, the Goal of Intention, & His Approach to Improving
Follow-Up: Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt — Learning to Leavittate, the Equinox Photo, Near Death Experiences, & More
EP 270: Bob Wells — The Ultimate Vanlife Guide: How to Live Cheap, Comfortable, and Free on the Road
EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)
EP 268: Tess Driessens — Tools for Chronic Pain, Learning to Move Effortlessly, & Three Sentences That Will Change Your Life
EP 267: Keith Baar & Natalie Gilmore — The Secret to Strong & Healthy Fingers, & Exciting New Science
EP 266: The 100-Day Climbing Experiment — Connor Bodin (Patron Spotlight)
EP 265: Katie Lambert Returns — How to Eat on a Climbing Day, Ingredients to Avoid, Nutrition on a Budget, Farm-to-School, & More
EP 264: Tony Yaniro — The Grand Illusion, Tin Foil Training, & Leslie Gulch Chipping Drama
EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World
EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America
EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path
EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism
EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing
Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Mindset Shifts, Choosing Finger Training Protocols, & How to Be a Pro-environmental Carnivore
EP 258: Louise Shepherd — “The Lynn Hill of Australia” on Her Dirtbag Days, Flying Breasts, & How to Save Arapiles Climbing
EP 257: Sol Wertkin — Surviving Cancer, a Richer Life After Climbing, and Saying Goodbye to Johnny G.
EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier
EP 255: Dave MacLeod Returns — Moving the Needle on Your Climbing, the Value of Daydreaming, & How to Thrive in Your 40s
EP 254: Best of 2024 (Including the Best of Patreon)
EP 253: April Davidson (yeahapril) — Living With a Blind Man, a Decade of Addiction, and Seeking Your Fullest Life
EP 252: Justin Salas — Life As a Legally Blind Climber, Building Mental Maps, and Being a Changemaker
EP 251: Eric Jerome — The Benefits of Caring Less, Seeking the Minimal Effective Dose, and Developing New Boulders
EP 250: Beth Rodden — Overcoming Fear, the Unwinnable Game of Climbing, and the Power of Human Stories
EP 249: Chris Sharma — Finishing Hard Things, Reinventing Yourself, and Finding the Sweet Spot
EP 248: Thomas Huber — Exploring the Impossible, the Stone Monkey Era, and Finding Freedom in the Mountains
EP 247: Todd Perkins — Protecting Moe’s Valley, and What We Can Do to Help
EP 246: Fundamentals — How to Break a Plateau
EP 245: A Political Discussion About the Health Crisis, Foreign Wars, the Future of Democracy, and More | ft. Kaizen Asiedu
EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits
Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)
EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury
EP 242: Molly Beard — The Language of Movement, Budgeting Your Body Dollars, and Advice From an L5 Routesetter
EP 241: Fundamentals — How to Train Your Fingers
EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential
BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations
EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training
EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong
EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training
EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall
EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain
EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board
Fundamentals Season 2 Kickoff
EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest
EP 232: Natalia Grossman (Olympian) — Her Breakout Success, Overcoming Mental & Physical Hurdles, & What It Takes to Win
EP 231: Colin Duffy (Olympian) — His Journey as a 2x Olympian, Comp Scoring & Strategy, & Future Outdoor Goals
EP 230: Emma Hunt (Olympian) — Why Speed Climbing is Legit, the Mental Game & Strategy of Racing, & Chasing World Records
EP 229: Shauna Coxsey (Olympian) — Climbing Harder After Pregnancy, Motivation vs. Commitment, and Letting Kids Be Themselves
EP 228: How to Easily Improve Your Flexibility for Climbing — Josh Hadley (Lattice Training)
EP 227: Nature Climbing — How to Prep Your Skin for a Trip, Hangboarding on Granite, and Building a Brand You Are Proud Of
EP 226: Justen Sjong — How to Master ANY Technique, Send Faster, & Float on the Wall With ‘The Climbing Sensei’
EP 225: Steven Gets His Dream Home Wall! | ft. Tony Bell and David Bress, Founders of Revival Climbing Coalition
EP 224: Jana Švecová — Pushing the Limits of Female Bouldering, Finding Silver Linings When Injured, and Chasing a Lifetime Goal
EP 223: Aidan Roberts — Navigating Pro Climbing, Establishing His Two Hardest Boulders, and Glimpsing Mastery
EP 222: Paul Houghoughi — How to Bulletproof Your Knees, Strengthen Your Shoulders, and Maintain a Happy Neck
EXTRA: Keenan Takahashi — Mustache Q&A, Highballing Near Misses, and Japanese Climbing Culture
EP 221: Keenan Takahashi — ‘The Gold Standard’, Learning From Limit Moves, and the Origin Story of ANTIGRAV
EP 220: Alannah Yip (Olympian) — Alopecia, Finding Power Beyond Hair Loss, and Her Fight Against Disordered Eating
EP 219: Fitz Cahall (The Dirtbag Diaries, Climbing Gold) — A Lifetime of Storytelling, Taking Authorship of Your Time, and Being Pro But Not Fancy
EP 218: Mat Wright — Sending One of the World's Hardest Trad Climbs, 'Rhapsody' E11
EP 217: A Masterclass in Relieving Stress, Sleeping Better, & Improving Focus Using Self-Hypnosis — Dr. David Spiegel (Stanford Psychiatrist)
EXTRA: Maddy Cope — A Masterclass in Endurance Training
EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out
EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans
EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)
EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects
EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films
EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury
EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance
EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Going to the Mountains to Learn, the 100-Year Plan, and Imperfect Advocacy
EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Optimistic Training, Last Place to Olympian, and Leveling Up His Bouldering
SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!
EP 207: Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) — How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again
EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns
SEND ALERT: Kai Lightner — ‘Life of Villains’ 9a, Not Rushing the Process, and Building Jamaica’s First Climbing Wall
EP 205: Adrian Vanoni — Finger Crack Wizardry, Blue Collar Sending, and Lucid Dreams About Beta
EP 204: Anak Verhoeven — How to Build 9a Endurance, Why Motivation Trumps Fancy Facilities, and Being Public About Her Faith
EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra’s Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker’
SEND ALERT: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird’ 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training
EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts
EP 201: James Pearson — The Full Redemption Story, Proposing the Mythical Grade of E12, and Climbing Harder After Kids
EP 200: Brooke Raboutou — An Olympian’s Mindset, Dancing on the Wall, and Competing Against Your Friends
EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing
EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel
EP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over Perfect
EP 196: Pete Whittaker — Chasing the Hardest Cracks in the World, Embracing the Suck, and Futuristic Desert Projects
EP 195: Matt Segal Returns — The Recipe for a Peak Year, Cooking Tips, and High Summits and Higher Grades
EP 194: Will Anglin — Why We Should Treat Climbing Like Baseball, and the #1 Thing All Climbers Should Do
EP 193: Mat Wright — Risking It All to Send, The Power of Specific Goals, and Relaxing Hard to Climb Harder
EP 192: Alex Biale — Bootlegging Wine, Training With Ollie Torr, and the Keys to a Balanced Life
EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization
EP 190: Josh Champion — Quitting After Sending V13, and Reengaging With Climbing in a Healthier Way
Follow-Up: Martin Keller — Sending V16 at Age 45, Getting More Out of Less, and the Skill of Delayed Gratification (Teaser)
EP 189: Lily Kral — Building a Board Climbing Gym, Exotic Dancing, and Being a Work in Progress
EP 188: Joey Jannsen & Rich Breuner — Underground Hip-Hop, Cage Fighting, and Hustling ‘Til You Make It
EP 187: Stefanie Myr — Miniature Carpentry, Becoming Polyamorous, and Finding “Church” at the Gym
Four Women Have Climbed V15
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Box Therapy V16, and the Willingness to Persist (Teaser)
EP 186: Q&A 7 (feat. Ethan Pringle) — Rocklands Wrap-Up, Bat Hang Shenanigans, and Challenging Your Perceived Limits
EP 185: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis — All Things Dynos, Why Boulderers Should Train Their Legs, and How to Enjoy Your Climbing
EP 184: Nic Rummel — Embracing Thickness, Lessons From 9 Years of Hangboarding, and Doing Whatever It Takes to Feel Like a Badass
EP 183: Jenn DeBellis — Chasing Dream Boulders, Turning Small Wins Into Big Wins, and Sustaining a Full-Time Job on the Road
EP 182: Carlos Tkacz & Steph Letourneau — Lessons From 7 Trips to Rocklands, Being Good at Being Consistent, and Writing Novels
EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends
EP 180: Troy Fauteux, Austin Hoyt, & Bryce Viola — Times We Almost Died, Toe Hook Training, and Laughs and Sends in Rocklands
EP 179: Cat Runner — Life After Winning The Climb, Embracing Trans Pride, and Sending Big at 5’0”
Follow-Up: Ollie Torr — How to Improve Your Critical Force, Training Endurance at Home, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns — Two Things He Does Every Day, Taking Your Time, and Honoring His Dad
EP 177: Tiba Vroom — Confronting Fear of Failure, Being the 8, and Taking Responsibility for Your Life
Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Lessons From Recent Diet Experiments, the 9a+ Goal, and Getting Stronger After Age 40 (Teaser)
EP 176: Eric Hörst Returns — Top 7 Most Common Training Mistakes
EP 175: Ady Wright — The Pressure of Opportunity, Acts of Rebellion, and Eating Oreos for Breakfast
EP 174: Bernd Zangerl — Developing World-Class Bouldering in the Himalayas, Entering the Easiness, and the Power of the Mind
Follow-Up: Hazel Findlay — Top 3 Performance Hacks (Teaser)
EP 173: Louis Parkinson — How to Break Down Dynamic Movements, the Benefits of Indoor Climbing, and Cultivating Confidence
EP 172: Brittany Leavitt — Seeking Change in Climbing, Unmasking, and Top Lessons From Teaching Kids
EP 171: Leo Houlding — A Life of Adventure, Climbing Big Walls With Kids, and Epic Stories From El Cap
BONUS: Ron Kauk — Spiritual Revolution for Evolution
EP 170: Karly Rager & Casey Elliott — What the Data Says About Weight, Height, and Ape Index, and Which Metrics Matter for Climbing Performance
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Active Recovery: Everything You Need to Know (Teaser)
EP 169: Scott Johnston — A Masterclass in Training Principles, and Why Boulderers Should Train Their Aerobic System
EP 168: Don McGrath — Rewriting Unhelpful Scripts, How to Tackle Fear of Falling, and Playing as We Age
Climbing Gold — Hot Henry
EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing
EP 166: Will Bosi — Sending ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17, Dream Projects, and Functional Finger Strength vs. Party Tricks
Follow-Up: Katie Lamb — Sending ‘Spectre’ V14, and Breaking Down Crux Moves (Teaser)
EP 165: Charlie Schreiber — Asking "Why", Squeezing Lemons, and How to Have a Good Poop in the Morning, Every Time
EP 164: Melina Costanza — Why Eating Food Makes You Awesome, Competing to Win vs. Not Lose, and Fun Facts With Melina
Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — How I Rehabbed My Bicep Tendon Injury, and How to Make the Transition From Rehab Back to Training (Teaser)
EP 163: Johnny Dawes — Legendary No-Hands Climbs, How to Master Footwork, and Life Lessons From Omelets to Icebergs
EP 162: Fundamentals — How to Structure Your Climbing Year
Follow-Up: Emil Abrahamsson — Gaining Weight to Climb His First V15, Overhauling His Training, and Thinking Long-Term With Projects (Teaser)
EP 161: Sam Stroh — Botching It and Sending Anyway, and Biggest Lessons from Hard Boulders to Free Climbs on El Cap
EP 160: Fundamentals — How to Pick a Project
EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make
EP 158: Fundamentals — How to Improve Your Technique
Follow-Up: Tim Emmett — Lessons From 80+ Days on Era Vella 9a, and Changing His Diet to Thrive at Age 48 (Teaser)
EP 157: Jeannie Wall — Getting Stronger in Her 50s, the Value of Doing Challenging Things, and Slowing Down to Go Fast
EP 156: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Sport Climbing Trip
EP 155: Caleb Robinson — Reaching V13 in Four Years, Biggest Lessons From Competitive Soccer, and the Power of Consistency
Follow-Up: Aidan Roberts — Sending Alphane, Training for V18 Projects, and Listener Q&A (Teaser)
Announcing YouTube + Win a Training Bundle!
EP 154: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Bouldering Trip
EP 153: Ollie Torr — The Secret to Finger Strength, How to Climb Like Aidan Roberts, and Staying on the Bus
Follow-Up: Jordan Cannon — Sending ‘Wet Lycra Nightmare’ on the Leaning Tower (Teaser)
EP 152: Fundamentals — How to Go on a Climbing Trip
Announcing Fundamentals!
EP 151: Anna Hazelnutt — Toe Training for the World’s Hardest Slabs, and Giving Others Permission to Be Real
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — Cutting Edge Finger Training Ideas, and the Difference Between Active Recruitment vs. Passive Tension (Teaser)
EP 150: Luke Mehall — How Climbing Gave Him His Life, Creating The Climbing Zine, and Sustaining Creative Work
EP 149: Steven on Kegels and Coffee — We Are Not Robots, As It Turns Out
EP 148: Alan Watts (Repost) — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra
BONUS: Alita Contreras — Guerreras Film!
Announcing Merch!
EP 147: Alayna Joy — Coming out to 400k Subscribers, Queerness in Climbing, and Compulsory Heterosexuality
EP 146: Todd Perkins — The Mind-Opening Effects of Cannabis, Why Gratitude is the Key to Climbing Longevity, and Near-Death Experiences
Follow-Up: Amity Warme — Sending ‘The Honeymoon Is Over’ in a Hailstorm, and Lessons From Another Season in Yosemite (Teaser)
EP 145: Katie Lamb — Breaking Into V14, Embracing Micro Beta, and How Climbers Can Be Leaders in the Climate Movement
EP 144: Marisa Michael — Why Losing Weight Won’t Make You Climb Harder, How to Navigate Food, and Intuitive Eating
EP 143: Matt Heyliger — Tissue Capacity vs. Biomechanics, Why Mobility Comes Before Strength, and the Eyeball Story
EP 142: Aidan Roberts — Training for Alphane V17, the Power of Replicas, and Embracing Your Style
EP 141: Robbie Phillips — Exploring Scottish Sea Cliffs, Keeping Things Fun, and Capturing Memories Through Filmmaking
EP 140: Tommy Caldwell — Undone Lines on El Cap, Father-Son Relationships, and Exploring the Limits of Human Endurance
EP 139: Lynn Hill — Breaking Barriers in Climbing, How to Find Self-Belief, and Challenging Social Norms
EP 138: Q&A 6 (feat. Taylor Fragomeni) — Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited, and More Patron Questions
Follow-Up: Ned Feehally — More Beastmaking Questions, and Longer Hangs for Long-Term Strength Gains (Teaser)
EP 137: Drew Ruana & Cameron Hörst — Lessons from Recent Sends, Training for Bouldering vs. Sport Climbing, and Leveling Up to V18 and 5.15c
EP 136: Dan Varian — High Angle Crimps, Silver Bullets in Finger Strength, and How to Activate Lazy Fingers
EP 135: Alice Hafer — How to Train Your Mind Muscle, Tips for Staying Motivated, and Box Jumps for Power
EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel — Creating Value on Social Media, Having a Strong “Why”, and the Road to 100k Followers
Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist — How to Climb Hard Sport Routes and Improve for Decades (Teaser)
EP 133: Neil Gresham — Using Ballet to Climb Harder, Developing Your Finishing Game, and Extensor Training for Stronger Fingers
EP 132: Rebecca Williams — A Deep Dive Into Fear of Falling, the Self-Soothing System, and Climbing Smarter
EP 131: Ryan Devlin — Life as a TV Actor, Progressing From 11b to 12c in a Year, and How Pro Climbers Relate to Struggle
EP 130: Stian Christophersen & Martin Mobråten — Writing The Climbing Bible, Finger Strength vs. General Strength, and Strategies for Improving Technique
Follow-Up: Matt Fultz — How to Train for the Hardest Crimp Boulders in the World (Teaser)
EP 129: Dorian Evers — How to Navigate Different Stoke Levels in Your Relationship, and Getting Vulnerable with Your Partner
EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, and How to Get Stronger on the Moonboard (Teaser)
EP 127: Jesse Firestone — Bouldering Tactics, Quantum Leaps, and Non-Physical Factors That Affect Our Performance
BONUS: Michelle LeBlanc — An Upcoming 2SLGBTQ+ Pride Event in Squamish
S1E2: The Great Equalizer (Repost from The American Climbing Project)
EP 126: Devin Dabney — Getting Uncomfortable, How Climbing Saved His Life, and How Competition Makes Us Better
Follow-Up: Alita Contreras — Sending Her First 5.14a, and Training With Lattice (Teaser)
EP 125: Zofia Reych — The Heritage of Climbing, Breaking Down Gender Roles, and What It’s Like to Be Autistic
EP 124: Karly Rager — Mental Strategies for Developing Focus, Learning vs. Performing, and Building a Coaching Business
EP 123: Magnus Midtbø — The Hard Work Behind Success, Go-To Climbing Workouts, and Takeaways from Training with Adam Ondra
Follow-Up: Chad Andrews — The Pros and Cons of Living on the Road to Climb, and Having a Healthier Relationship with Money (Teaser)
EP 122: Jared Vagy — How to Prevent Knee, Shoulder, Elbow, and Finger Injuries as Climbers
EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing
EP 120: Lea Volpe — The World of Paraclimbing Competitions, How We Perceive Wheelchairs, and Empathy in Coaching
EP 119: Carrie Cooper — Thinking of Ourselves as Athletes, Research in Climbing, and Mobility and Warming Up
EP 118: Chad Andrews Interviews Steven Dimmitt — Repost from the Clipping Chains Podcast
Follow-Up. Joe Kinder — Sending 'Mamajamma', and What I Learned from 5 Weeks of Projecting with Joe (Teaser)
EP 117: Yves Gravelle — Lessons From Grip Sports, Basing Your Training on the Demands of Your Goal, and Top 3 Finger Training Methods
EP 116: Paul Robinson — Coming Back From Injuries, Opening Up About Autism, and Working Boulders Top Down
Steven's Blog: Mar '22
Reflections: Mina
Announcing "Reflections" and "Steven's Blog"
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — Hueco 2022 Debrief (Teaser)
EP 115: Jordan Cannon — The Triple Crown in Yosemite, Big Wall Pooping Stories, and How to Build the Skills to Climb El Capitan
EP 114: Q&A 5 — My Current Finger Training Routine, How to Deal With Bad Body Image, and Golden Nuggets for Newer Climbers
EP 113: Ned Feehally — Beastmaking, Long-Term Finger Training, and Climbing With Ankle Weights
Follow-Up: Steve McClure — Sending ‘Lexicon’ E11, Projecting Tips, and How to Enjoy a Long Life of Climbing (Teaser)
EP 112: Favia Dubyk — Specializing in Lowball Roof Bouldering, Surviving Cancer, and Learning How to Dyno
EP 111: Jerry Moffatt — Being a “Crag Rat”, Developing Your Mental Game, and What the Top Climbers Have in Common
EP 110: “The Verm” Returns — Life Lessons at Age 62, Fun Facts About Birds, and Injury Stories
Follow-Up: Josh Wharton — Attempting to Flash 'Freerider' on El Cap (Teaser)
EP 109: Martin Keller — How to Train on Rock, Your Subconscious Brain, and Lessons from 150+ Days on a Boulder
EP 108: John Sherman — Hueco Tanks in the 80s, Highballing Before Crash Pads, and Adding Layers to the Bouldering Experience
EP 107: Tim Emmett — How to Climb Harder After 40, The Magic Formula for Climbing 9a, and Life Philosophies
Follow-Up: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Teaser)
EP 106: Hans Florine — Speed Climbing on ‘The Nose’, Big Wall Tips, and the Evolution of Speed Climbing Competitions
EP 105: Brent Barghahn — How to Retire Before Age 30, Extreme Unicycling, and How to Free Climb Big Walls By Yourself
EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More
Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)
EP 103: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk — Chasing Flow State, The Role of Cleverness in Climbing, and Becoming a Mom
EP 102: Matty Hong — The History of ‘Flex Luthor’, Climbing Waterfalls in Japan, and the Camera as a Gift
EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Training Plan for Hueco Round 2 (Teaser)
EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing
Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser)
EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes
Follow-Up: Tyson Schoene — Building Champions, and Keeping Things Simple (Teaser)
EP 98: Kyra Condie — The Olympic Experience, Training With a Fused Spine, and Thriving in Organized Chaos
EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic
EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation
EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)
EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training
EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story
Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Climbing Harder in a Stronger Body (Teaser)
EP 92: Tom Herbert (Part 1) — Eating More to Train Harder, Protein Synthesis, and Carbohydrate Timing
EP 91: Craig DeMartino — Amputating His Leg to Climb Again, El Cap Stories, and Embracing a New Normal
EP 90: Josh Wharton — Onsight Tips and Tricks, Training to Flash El Capitan, and Risk Assessment as a Parent
EP 89: Q&A 3 — How My Training Has Evolved, How to Stay Strong on a Road Trip, and Life Mottos
Follow-Up: Allison Vest — ‘Throwin’ the Houlian’, Mono Training, and the Periodic Table of Elements (Teaser)
EP 88: Ben Ditto — Early Climbing and Photography, Dynafit Dangling, and Adventures With the ‘Wild Bunch’
EP 87: Alita Contreras — Learning Languages, Coaching Women to Climb Powerfully, and Translating Training Books
EP 86: Dylan Barks — Spray Wall Sessions, RMNP Rampaging, and Recovering From an Eating Disorder
Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Summer Training Plan, Listener Q&A, and Steve’s Go-To Training Exercises (Teaser)
EP 85: Emil Abrahamsson — Trying Hard Projects, Hangboarding Two Times Per Day, and a Career on YouTube
EP 84: Boone Speed — Training in the Hell Cave, the Grasshopper Board, and the Future of Artificial Climbing
Follow-Up: Nathan Hadley — Two Routes on The Diamond (Teaser)
EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses
EP 82: Christine Deyo — Learning Creativity, Fontainebleau Circuits, and the Role of Diversity in Route Setting
Follow-Up: Dru Mack — Play Hard. Rest Hard. (Teaser)
EP 81: Hazel Findlay — The Ego, Fear of Falling, and Mental Training for ‘Magic Line’
EP 80: Robb Wolf — Prioritizing Protein, the Importance of Sleep, and a Case for a Meat Inclusive Diet
Follow-Up: Ron Kauk — Listener Q&A, Who Punched John Bachar, and a Plane Full of Weed (Teaser)
EP 79: Tyler Nelson — A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut Eating
EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets
EP 77: Allison Vest — A Competitor’s Mindset, Fun Challenges, and the Secret to One-Arm Hangs
Follow-Up: Shanjean Lee — Free Climbing El Cap (Teaser)
A Call from Ethan
EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling
EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism
Follow-Up: William Woodward — Sailing Stories, Vanlife Tips, and How to Wash Dishes (Teaser)
EP 74: Tom Randall on Patience, Finger Training, and the Late Night Climbing Show
EP 73: Kyle O’Meara — Favorite First Ascents, Experience vs. Strength, and Sharing the Love of Climbing
Follow-Up: Katie Lambert — Zebra Stripes, and the Goal to Climb 300 5.13s (Teaser)
EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen
EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1) — TV Weather, Campusing vs. Hangboarding, and How to Train Your Core
Follow-Up: Alex Johnson — Sending The Mother F***ing Swarm (Teaser)
EP 70: Steve Maisch — How to Structure a Bouldering Trip, the 85% Rule, and Hueco Debrief
EP 69: Ron Kauk — Hollywood Stories, Camp 4 in the 70s, and Connecting with Mother Nature
Follow-Up: Ken Klein — The 3 Things We Should Be Assessing As Climbers (Teaser)
EP 68: Steve McClure — Hitchhiking Stories, Tenacity vs. Strength, and Making Your Own Luck
EP 67: Heth Jennings — Understanding Pain, Rehabbing Climbing Injuries, and Carb Backloading
Follow-Up: Mercedes Pollmeier — Your Flexibility Questions Answered (Teaser)
EP 66: Mercedes Pollmeier — How to Improve Flexibility in 6 Minutes Per Day, and Cycling Your Training
BONUS: Matt Sparks — Earth Day, and the Impacts of Chalk
EP 65: Natalie Duran — Ninja Antics, Fear Conditioning, and Living Like a Superhero
Follow-Up: Jon Glassberg — Sending ‘The Nest’, and Representing for the Big Guys (Teaser)
EP 64: Christophe Bichet — Climbing As a Metaphor for Life, Finding ‘Why’, and the Awe of Being Alive
EP 63: Megan Mascarenas — Solving Puzzles, Pole Dancing, and Discovering a New Identity
Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Listener Q&A, and Training “The Position” (Teaser)
EP 62: Q&A 1 — How We Get Strong, Dealing with Injuries, and Patterns Among High Performers
EP 61: Chelsea Murn — How to Rewire Your Brain, Take Courageous Leaps, and Manifest Your Dream Life
Follow-Up: Ben Herrington — A Guide to Developing New Boulders (Teaser)
EP 60: Leif Gasch — Becoming a Trainer, Mini-Goals, and Tackling Listener Questions
EP 59: My Eating Disorder — Starving Myself to Climb Harder, and Lessons Learned
EP 58: Carlos Tkacz — Lessons from Teaching, a Free Training Book, and Self-Publishing Sci-Fi
Follow-Up: Emily Harrington — Sending 'Golden Gate', Shoe Tricks, and Pancakes (Teaser)
EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2) — Highlights From ‘9 Out of 10’, Flexible Programming, and Listener Questions
EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1) — Jumping Up 4 Grades in 18 Months, Fingerboard Rituals, and Nutrient Density
BONUS: Blake Cason — Upcoming Retreats
Follow-Up: Blake Cason — Dancing with ‘Joe SixPack’ (Teaser)
EP 55: Kai Lightner — Disordered Eating, Flexibility for Tall Climbers, and Climbing for Change
EP 54: Matt Segal — ‘Miami Vice’, Coffee with Benefits, and a Brief Stint with Paragliding
Follow-Up: Mike Doyle — How to Maintain Finger Strength While Sport Climbing (Teaser)
EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts
EP 52: Jon Glassberg (Part 1) — Filming Emily Harrington on ‘Golden Gate’, and Pursuing V15
Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Goal Setting and the "Three Good Tries" Rule (Teaser)
EP 51: Chris and Heather Weidner — Kneebar Wizardry, Projecting Tips, and Supporting Each Other’s Goals
EP 50: Jon Cardwell — Projecting 5.15, Pre-Training Modes, and Bouldering for Sport Climbing
Follow-Up: Lizzy VanPatten — 'Make Me Sanguine' (Teaser)
Darek Krol Memorial Clip
EP 49: Remembering Darek Krol
Merry Christmas!
EP 48: Alex Johnson (Part 2) — Isometric Training, Getting Strong, and the Lock-Off Challenge
Follow-Up: Jasna Hodžić — Projecting 101 (...More like 401) (Teaser)
EP 47: Alex Johnson (Part 1) — An Olympic Dream, the Art of Failure, and Thriving in Your Own Skin
T-Shirt Giveaway!
EP 46: Chris Kalous — Untold Stories, the Mythical Grade of A6+, and the Gift of Podcasting
Follow-Up: Brittany Goris — The Wild World of Offwidths (Teaser)
EP 45: Dru Mack (feat. Nat Gustafson) — How to Stay Strong While Projecting, and Battling ‘The Crew’
EP 44: Steven Dimmitt (feat. Ethan Pringle) — The Guy Behind The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Follow-Up: Jonathan Siegrist — ‘Nu World’ and the ‘Event Horizon’ Project (Teaser)
EP 43: Emily Harrington — Projecting ‘Golden Gate’ in a Day, Embracing Fear, and Cupcake Batter Ice Cream
EP 42: Hailey Franklin Fultz — Strength + Nutrition, Fat Loss Strategies, and “Healthifying” Dessert
Follow-Up: Drew Ruana — Recent V16s (Teaser)
EP 41: Tonde Katiyo (Part 2) — RIC as a Tool, the Value of Route Setting, and Keeping Training in Perspective
EP 40: Tonde Katiyo (Part 1) — Discrimination vs. Privilege, and Making a Better World by Making Better Climbing
Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle — The Stories We Tell Ourselves (Teaser)
EP 39: Matt Fultz — ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Strength Before Weight, and Using Your Build as a Gift
EP 38: Solomon Barth — Up-Down-Ups, Veganism, and Working to Live (and Make a Difference)
EP 37: Simon Carter — Action vs. Landscape, The Taipan Closure, and Top 10 Climbing Photography Tips
BONUS: Charlie Manganiello — Goals vs. Actions, Synchronized Swimming, and Magic Bullets
BONUS: Alex Bridgewater — Getting Strong, Speed Walking, and Self-Belief
EP 36: Climb Strong Team — 2020 Training Camp Mashup
EP 35: Steve Bechtel — Changing Your Mind, Lessons From Studying Sprinting, and Creating Better Habits
EP 34: Roger Volkmann — Five Principles of Life, Tough vs. Strong, and Devils Tower
EP 33: Mike Kerzhner — El Cap’s ‘PreMuir’, Emigrating from Russia, and Discipline vs. Necessity
EP 32: Natasha Barnes — Myths and Truths of Strength Training, Calorie Balance, and The Power Mullet
EP 31: Maya Madere — Windsurfing, Endurance Training for Boulderers, and Trusting Intuition
EP 30: Connor Herson — Fourteen 5.14s at Fourteen, Big Wall Free Climbing, and Power Training on a Home Wall
EP 29: Tyson Schoene — Building World-Class Athletes, the Value of Competition, and Drills for Every Climber
EP 28: Blake Cason on Radical Honesty, the Mindfulness Muscle, and Cycling Priorities
EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong
EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion
EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index
EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt
EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks
EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity
EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love
EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life
EP 19: Mikey Schaefer (Part 2) — Footwear for Big Walls, Rope Tricks, and the “Fix and Follow” System
EP 18: Mikey Schaefer (Part 1) — Meaningful First Ascents, Becoming a Jack of All Trades, and Building the Pyramid
EP 17: Drew Ruana — ‘Sleepwalker’ V16, The Skin and Conditions Game, and Training Philosophy
EP 16: Tara Kerzhner — Capturing Moments, Telling Stories, and Shooting What You Love
EP 15: Katie Lambert — Improving Every Year, Balancing Multiple Disciplines, and Nutrition for Climbers
EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project
EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career
EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely
EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief
EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration
EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training
EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream
EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do
EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra
EP 03: William Woodward on Balancing Work and Passion, Rules for Life, and Ruby the Vanagon
EP 02: Chris Wright — How to Climb a 7000 Meter Peak, Climbing with Heroes, and Thai Fried Chicken
EP 01: Lizzy VanPatten on Practicing Gratitude, Building a Business, and Projecting Fear (and 5.12 Trad)